Cleaning out ABS module
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 316
Likes: 21
From: Michigan
Cleaning out ABS module
I am not getting any codes, but the left front brake pressure seems to be less than the right front. When I apply the brakes, the car dives to the right, when I release the brakes the car tracks straight again.
I have replaced calipers, pads, rotors, braided lines to the calipers one step at a time. I even swapped calipers from side to side. The same routine for the rear. I bled the whole system at any point of all of this when the brake system had been opened. No issues with flow, but actual pressure I do not know.
The only thing I can figure is that there is some debris in the ABS block itself.
Is there a procedure for cleaning out the ABS block?
I have replaced calipers, pads, rotors, braided lines to the calipers one step at a time. I even swapped calipers from side to side. The same routine for the rear. I bled the whole system at any point of all of this when the brake system had been opened. No issues with flow, but actual pressure I do not know.
The only thing I can figure is that there is some debris in the ABS block itself.
Is there a procedure for cleaning out the ABS block?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 498
From: NJ
Do you feel any additional pedal effort when bleeding the left side as opposed to the right side? This would indicate a restriction. Ran into a problem like this before, but it turned out to be a brake hose. The brake hose swelled around the bracket holding it. The hose couldn't swell outward due to the bracket holding it, so it swelled inward reducing the cross-sectional area of the hose and thus reducing flow. Didn't find this out until I completely dissected the hose and found the hose to be almost completely blocked off at the bracket . So when I installed the replacement hose, I had to open up the bracket to give the hose room to breathe, so to speak. As a precautionary measure, I opened up the bracket on the other side too.
Also you could try removing the brake line that feeds the left caliper from the ABS unit and flush/ bleed from there.
Also you could try removing the brake line that feeds the left caliper from the ABS unit and flush/ bleed from there.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 316
Likes: 21
From: Michigan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 316
Likes: 21
From: Michigan
Also you could try removing the brake line that feeds the left caliper from the ABS unit and flush/ bleed from there.
My next step I was thinking of doing just that. At the same time I thought if the pressure of the actual brake system wasn't pushing it though, flushing it with my parts washer and an airline may not make a difference either. So, I was thinking of just routing a line myself in place of the one you mentioned and see if it continues to pull.
The reason for my original question is if I still end up with the issue, that would be all that was left to look at. I'm trying to stay ahead of this as much as I can.
My next step I was thinking of doing just that. At the same time I thought if the pressure of the actual brake system wasn't pushing it though, flushing it with my parts washer and an airline may not make a difference either. So, I was thinking of just routing a line myself in place of the one you mentioned and see if it continues to pull.
The reason for my original question is if I still end up with the issue, that would be all that was left to look at. I'm trying to stay ahead of this as much as I can.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 316
Likes: 21
From: Michigan
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 896
From: Nappytown MD
easiest way to cycle the ABS module is to use an active scanner tool that will cycle the ABS. It walks you through the process. If you decide to do that, be ready to re-bleed and re fill the whole system as it is possible, you might push some crud out of the ABS module and get that into the fluid/system. Another way is to go somewhere safe, like a parking lot or empty flat field where you can go ~20mph and then lock up the brakes to make the ABS function and push fluid.
Are each of the front wheels balanced and weigh approx the same? If the right front wheel has different mass/balance, it could cause what you are experiencing, just a thought.
Are each of the front wheels balanced and weigh approx the same? If the right front wheel has different mass/balance, it could cause what you are experiencing, just a thought.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 316
Likes: 21
From: Michigan
easiest way to cycle the ABS module is to use an active scanner tool that will cycle the ABS. It walks you through the process. If you decide to do that, be ready to re-bleed and re fill the whole system as it is possible, you might push some crud out of the ABS module and get that into the fluid/system. Another way is to go somewhere safe, like a parking lot or empty flat field where you can go ~20mph and then lock up the brakes to make the ABS function and push fluid.
Are each of the front wheels balanced and weigh approx the same? If the right front wheel has different mass/balance, it could cause what you are experiencing, just a thought.
Are each of the front wheels balanced and weigh approx the same? If the right front wheel has different mass/balance, it could cause what you are experiencing, just a thought.
This is a street/ track car, so I closely maintain it.
I have several years in vehicle prototype, research & development. The very few things I cannot perform myself, such as wheel balancing, alignments I am very "picky" about how it is done, lol. Actually, I only have one shop that I trust to balance for me. When I first started going there they asked me how I could tell the balance was was even or not.
It's amazing to see what the average buyer accepts for NVH or BSR. But, they do not know the difference either.