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Looking to do the clutch and it looks like most people go with the ls7 clutch for stock/bolt on c5s. Any other recommendations for a weekend car? Only mods I can see in the future are headers and maybe heads/cam ( very long term)
My only beef with the LS7 clutch is that it is heavy, and makes the engine less responsive.
Maybe consider Monster S Series - it's more like a factory config. https://www.tpsmotorsports.com/monst...ch-c5-corvette
Definitely do the Tick Master Cylinder with a remote bleeder at the same time.
I have the LS7 clutch and about the same mods on your to-do list and it’s fine. You can go with a McCloud, etc., but I believe even they will tell you it’s overkill for the power you’re considering.
There is a variant of the GM kit with a lighter flywheel if that fits your needs. The optional RAM 19 lb flywheel vs the standard 29lb flywheel from Scoggin-Dickey, Tick, etc….
Ticks price for the kit looks realllly good at $599. I did a double take when I just looked that up.
The aluminum flywheel takes the whole LS7 clutch assembly back down to approx the weight of original. It's a good investment.
Using Tick as the standard for comparable LS7 vs Monster - they are essentially the same price $1346 for Monster vs $1277 for LS7 with Aluminum Flywheel. On something that's as much of a PITA to swap as a C5 Clutch, I wouldn't let $70 influence my decision.
I'm not endorsing one over the other, I'd consider them pretty much equals. The Monster will probably hold a little more torque.
The aluminum flywheel takes the whole LS7 clutch assembly back down to approx the weight of original. It's a good investment.
Using Tick as the standard for comparable LS7 vs Monster - they are essentially the same price $1346 for Monster vs $1277 for LS7 with Aluminum Flywheel. On something that's as much of a PITA to swap as a C5 Clutch, I wouldn't let $70 influence my decision.
I'm not endorsing one over the other, I'd consider them pretty much equals. The Monster will probably hold a little more torque.
Lowend: I could have missed something…but the Tick ad seems to be less expensive than stated in the comment above.
Tick is selling the LS7 kit for $600 + $200 (RAM Flywheel) = $800, close to $500 less than an aftermarket clutch.
I think the 1100 one includes all the hydraulics but wondering if it’ll be cheaper to get the ls7 clutch from tick and then the slave and master from rock auto.
Am I missing something here or is the luck 04950 the same as the ls7 clutch and about 200 bucks cheaper than the prior version linked? Other than this, would I just need a new slave
Am I missing something here or is the luck 04950 the same as the ls7 clutch and about 200 bucks cheaper than the prior version linked? Other than this, would I just need a new slave
Haven’t heard any complaints. LUK does make parts for GM, but I have not seen evidence their branded kit is the exact same material and quality control as the GM kit. Maybe…. For example some brands of LS7 lifters are said to be made at the same production facilities as GM parts, but the GM OEM parts are inspected every dozen parts, whereas another brand might be everyday. I don’t recall the exact ratio, but it is something crazy like that.
When taking the entirety of a full clutch job, labor, parts, headache, going all GM is peace of mind for me. The GM clutch assembly is the same as designed for the C6 Z06, so it’s stout. Tick master cylinders are a higher performance alternative but not for everyone, so you could search some forum posts for user experiences.
Definitely get a new slave…
You can use your old master cylinder, but keep in mind if it’s the original it’s 20+ years old and going to have a shorter life span. They are not that expensive so it’s prudent to have a completely fresh hydraulic system.
Looking forward to learning what you end up with and up your thoughts on the outcome. Good luck 👍
Last edited by vette4fl; Mar 29, 2026 at 11:32 PM.
Pulled trigger on the 300 buck ls7 clutch package from rock auto. Just wondering if it’s worth adding an aluminum flywheel and if I’ll regret not doing so. Will be doing the oem slave and master as well.
You're gonna wish you did the Tick master. If you've ever had the sticky clutch problem - Tick ends that.
My recommendation from here would be to order the Aluminum Flywheel and Master (and bleeder) from Tick. Once you have everything you should have the clutch assembly balanced at a local shop. Your driveline vibrations will thank you.
Getting the clutch out is such a massive PITA, might as well take care of the frequent offenders while you are there. Other to-do's as part of the project
I would strongly recommend replacing the rear main seal plate while you are in there. These leak over time, and it's easy to get to with the trans out. GM PN is 12639250 for the 'upgraded' version.
Change the transmission and rear differential fluid at the same time, it's not a big deal, but no one remembers to do this.
At the very least, regrease the shifter box and replace the shifter bushing as it is almost certainly worn out.
If you wanted to upgrade the shifter or shift box while there, it's a really short process. If you do replace the shifter, I'd do Tick or T-Mod as they come with the upgraded shifter box most other shifters are just the top portion.
Clutch and hydraulics
