I'm in the process of having a new engine built. I'm going with stock sized Forged JE pistons and H beam rods with 5.3 heads. I will also be running a 100 wet shot on top. The engine builder felt it would be real easy at this point to use a worked over "stock" crank to make the engine a 376? Is this really a drop in? Is it worth the effort? I was told we can have the chambers in the heads CC'ed to maintain the 11.+ compression. I need some advise as thanks to you out there my car has grown from daily driver to garage kept weekend cruiser/drag car. :confused:

 

Sorry I don't have the answer, but will watch your post and perhaps get some education. I would think that if the builder took the crank down and used longer rods and as big a piston as would fit without resleeving it might go up a bit but not that much. I think I am ending up with 355 with 1 over pistons and stock size Lunati rods. Sent you a IM. :cheers: :cheers:
No fun not driving a vette while it is down. Visiting hours every Saturday.

 

Take a stock crank , offset grind the throw journals x amount, fit with custom bearings and viola!!! More cubes....Probably cost as much as a stroker crank, and definitely wouldn't be as strong.See pic


[Modified by lost, 5:41 AM 2/25/2003]

 

I does not come close to the cost of a stroker crank!!!! A stroker crank goes for $2500. Offset grind a stock crank is $150 in machine work + nitride process. I went the offset grind route +.10" stroke. The crank got nitrided, too. Taking .10" off a 2" journal is only a decrease of 5%. The stock crank is a very strong crank with good grain flow. I have no worries about thrashing this crank with 200+ shot nitrous. no, it wont be as strong as the $2500 forged stroker crank, but good for anything you can throw at it up to 600hp+.

 

Well I feel a little better about this as some of you seem to had heard or done this already. I still have a couple days to think about it before my pistons come in. And may I say "DAM parts are expensive for this LS1!! Everything is over $100 just for the small stuff i.e: timing chain, Ported LS6 oil pump, gears, water pump......... It just doesn't seem to stop! Thanks for the input and keep it coming.

 

If you are going to offset grind, I recommend going with the 1.888 mains out of an Accura. This is what NASCAR is doing. You can then buy a set of used rods from a NASCAR team at JR motorsports. 6.125 or 6.200 for about $500. Here are some recent topics on this.

http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=1;t=011181

http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=1;t=010868
http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=1;t=008409


http://www.jrmotorsports.net/

Go out to this site, and look under rods. There are about 100 sets for sale.

The formula for max torque allowable in a solid cylinder under a torque is:
torque = max_shear * (pi * r^3)
, where max_shear is the maximum shear strength of the material.

1.888 is about 90% of 2.1, and 0.90^3 is 73%, so a crank shaft 90% of the size of the original will be able to handle 73% of the torque, assuming the machining doesn't change the material properties, and ignoring the effects of cryo-treating.

That's how strong it ought to be, anyway.

JPR's got 382 all-bore short blocks for only $4200 (stock crank and rods). If you could add a 3.82" offset-ground crank for $500, you'd be at 404ci, and still under $5000.

There is NO loss in stength that will put you in danger going to a 1.888 rod journal if the crank is done properly. Bang for the buck you can't beat using a stock block and crank to make 396 ci's. Using the Carrillo rods that new go for $2,200, hell the rod bolts alone are $500 on these and that's what you pay for the whole set of these rods. That is an amazing deal!!!

You can get 3.822 out of a good crank without any spun journals of course. You have to allow 10-15 thou of clean up. So the total differnce in bearing size assuming STD bearing sizes is .212 - 12 thou cleanup will net around .200 of clean stroke increase. Also you can get a little more if you go with a 10-20 under bearing. But I would rather do a STD bearing so if you ever need to regrind it undersized it's still usable. Hope this helps.


[Modified by J-Rod, 9:49 AM 2/25/2003]


[Modified by J-Rod, 9:50 AM 2/25/2003]


[Modified by J-Rod, 9:51 AM 2/25/2003]


[Modified by J-Rod, 9:53 AM 2/25/2003]

 

J-Rod: Thank's for the GREAT link and excellent info!! :cheers: