Changing brake fluid
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL.
Changing brake fluid
I am installing new rotors and might just replace the brake lines with braided steel lines while the rotors are off. I would like to change to a better fluid. How do I remove the old fluid and will I have problems bleeding the lines with anti-lock brakes? I have bled lines in the past, however the cars had std. non anti-lock brakes. What fluid is the best for track use and how much will I need?
Thanks for your help,
Loud Mouth :flag
Thanks for your help,
Loud Mouth :flag
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: BLMVOR R160 [] HOCVOR R305 Switzerland BL
Re: Changing brake fluid (Loud Mouth)
Loud Mouth, hi,
I personally would recommend you to go the MOTUL route. Considering the importance of a high spec "wet boiling point", MOTUL RBF600 is second best Brake Fluid, just behind CASTROL SRF (very expensive and very hygroscopic - seems not being recommended for street use).
2 Bottles (~ 1 Liter) of MOTUL will do the job. Before starting the fluid exchange, suck-out the most you can off of the filling reservoir. Always carefully check that you do not run empty your master brake cylinder/reservoir during fluid exchange pumping. Stroke your brake pedal SLOWLY and NOT to the very end of possible travel (you might put a li'l block of wood underneath the pedal to assure you a final stop point) and overall : take your time.
Alternatively and/or by the following year (considering yearly exchange of the B-F) you might go the ATE Super Blue route (almost also about 400°F wet boiling point, which is a good spec level for hard driving/braking). Doing so, you have a visual reference when you are flushing your brake system.
I also would recommend you the use of a set of Speed Bleeders - those make it an easy and safe one man job without any messing around.
Joe. :seeya
I personally would recommend you to go the MOTUL route. Considering the importance of a high spec "wet boiling point", MOTUL RBF600 is second best Brake Fluid, just behind CASTROL SRF (very expensive and very hygroscopic - seems not being recommended for street use).
2 Bottles (~ 1 Liter) of MOTUL will do the job. Before starting the fluid exchange, suck-out the most you can off of the filling reservoir. Always carefully check that you do not run empty your master brake cylinder/reservoir during fluid exchange pumping. Stroke your brake pedal SLOWLY and NOT to the very end of possible travel (you might put a li'l block of wood underneath the pedal to assure you a final stop point) and overall : take your time.
Alternatively and/or by the following year (considering yearly exchange of the B-F) you might go the ATE Super Blue route (almost also about 400°F wet boiling point, which is a good spec level for hard driving/braking). Doing so, you have a visual reference when you are flushing your brake system.
I also would recommend you the use of a set of Speed Bleeders - those make it an easy and safe one man job without any messing around.
Joe. :seeya
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 1
From: SE Idaho
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Changing brake fluid (Loud Mouth)
You can manually bleed the brake system; however, any fluid in the antilock module will not be bled off. To bleed the BPMV, you need to exercise the solenoids via a scan tool.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL.
Re: Changing brake fluid (Loud Mouth)
Thank you very much guys, should I worry about the fluid in the anti-lock system or will the majority of the fluid change out without the actuation of the anti-lock solinoids?
Thanks for the help,
Loud Mouth :flag
Thanks for the help,
Loud Mouth :flag
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco CA
Re: Changing brake fluid (Loud Mouth)
For you guys who track your vette's, I had an extra shipment of Castrol SRF racing brake fluid. $55 / 1 Liter. Call or email me to order. Thanks.
For those who dont know about SRF. Its currently the best fluid you can buy. NASCAR uses it. It has the highest WET boiling point. The wet boiling point is much higher than its closest competitor which is Motul 600. It will not boil on you at a track day. Retails for $79/Liter. At this price of $55 per full liter, it isnt that much more expensive than Motul or AP Racing fluid which is sold in half liter bottles.
It is OK for street use as long as you replace it every 18 months...
Danny
Garage1
415-864-6660
:party:
For those who dont know about SRF. Its currently the best fluid you can buy. NASCAR uses it. It has the highest WET boiling point. The wet boiling point is much higher than its closest competitor which is Motul 600. It will not boil on you at a track day. Retails for $79/Liter. At this price of $55 per full liter, it isnt that much more expensive than Motul or AP Racing fluid which is sold in half liter bottles.
It is OK for street use as long as you replace it every 18 months...
Danny
Garage1
415-864-6660
:party:
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
Likes: 2
From: Naples Florida
Re: Changing brake fluid (Loud Mouth)
loudmouth, sounds like you are getting a lot of complex answers for a simple question. To bleed your brakes, get a turkey baster and suck out as much of the old fluid as you can in the main (rear resevoir). Refill with new fluid. bleed brakes and make sure you don't run out of fluid in the resevoir. I use ford hp brake fluid because for $7 per 16 oz it has the highest dry boiling point per fluid oz cost period. I have done this at least two dozen times on my C5 over the last 4 years (track use). If you need more specific info on this send me an email.
