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I bought them on a GP from TBYRNE. You also need the installation kit and the H-downpipe if your keeping stock cats. I installed them while doing a cam swap. They went in OK from the top without loosening the motor mounts as they say in the instructions, but rerouting the wiring around the starter area is a pain. Fit and finish is excellent, I like the fact that they are stainless. You have to cut the exhaust pipes above the cats for a good slip fit, no welding required, and no leaks so far. I like them, the sound awsome with Borla Stingers. A real deep growl. I did them with a cam, and SOP improvement is huge. No dyno yet. Don't live close to one. :smash:
I'm right in the middle of installing my SLP's that I purchased via GP from Tybyrne on Xmas eve. Got to tell you, it's shaping up to be a real PITA. I'll be pulling the driver side stock manifold tonight and installing the SLP header on that side. Looks like a lot of rerouting of brake and clutch tubing on the driver side to make this work. Passenger side looks even worse. A lot of wiring in the way down around the starter so I guess I'll need to relocate and heat shield all of that as well. May have to manufacture a heat shield for teh starter to avoid the "hot starter" issues.
The O2 bung holes on the H-pipe adaptor are nearly back at the main cats - which is where they should be - but are in the vertical and man, is it tight up there for installing the sensors. I noticed that Nozebleed said he was able to clamp at the cats rather than weld. I took a look but cannot say for sure how much material will be left to allow that. I'm thinking welding is the only option at the cats. I've sent Nozebleed an IM to see if he has any advice.
The SLP's are more a "tuned length" header, thus they have some bends and curves that others don't. I had a lot of items already off the motor for my cam swap, I think that helped getting them in through the top without jacking or prying the motor off the mounts. I did not have to reroute any brake or clutch lines. No mention of it in SLP instructions. Had to push back the AC line on the pass side a little for heat clearance. Wires on the pass side have to be unwrapped, (just tape) heatshielded and rerouted to the starter. Starter must be pulled for the install. Install kit includes all nesesary wire shield, clamps and gaskets. Just gotta be carefull about where those wires are.
H-downtube slip fit at the header is a nice tight slip fit with a sturdy band clamp. Also a slip fit at the cat end, but I don't like the U type clamps there and may get that end welded up. Ive seen no codes due to 02 placement in the H-downtube.
Tkes some time, but they fit and look great when there in. I'm happy so far.
:cheers: