I'm putting a Hurst on my Z06 this weekend, and I wanted to know how much difference there is in changing the springs out. I do NOT want it as stiff as a B&M Ripper, but I don't want it as light as stock. Should I just leave it alone, or if a change is necessary, what springs would you use?
Thanks as always for any input!


[Modified by Ryan Bell, 5:01 PM 3/19/2003]

 

I put the softest set of springs in after driving around with the default springs for a couple of weeks. It's still way stiffer than stock, just right in my book. I used to have a B&M, but it was too long ago for me to make a comparison.

You can change the springs later if you change your mind, but you have to remove the console piece, not the whole shifter.

 

:cheers: :thumbs:

 

I changed the springs and all I did was remove the shifter boot. Took about 5 minutes. :steering:

 

Try the light outer spring.....One per side.....I think you wil like it.When you decide on your type of spring use lock-tite on the tension spring bolt. :steering:

 

I used only the softest spring. It still felt a little stiff at first, but it seems to be better now, or I'm getting used to it.

 

:withstupid: I started with the lightest inner and outer springs in both sides. 5th gear was a little tough, so I removed the inner spring on the passenger side. I only removed the shifter boot, and it was easy to get out. From there, just a little fiddling with the nuts and the shifter was perfect. Good luck.

 

Start with the springs that are in it. After a couple of weeks change the springs and see how that feels. Go from there.

:cheers:

 

:iagree: I liked the original (default) springs so much I never changed them! :yesnod: :yesnod: :thumbs: :cheers:

 

I have the original springs on the right side and the lighter springs on the left. That is because I wanted it to be easier to get into reverse.

Since the spring sits on top of the fulcrum on both sides, it is the left side springs that exert force against the fulcrum when you engage reverse.

 

Since you know that you want a less stiff feel, start with go with the lighter springs and change them out as you determine the feel that you want.

A couple install tips:

When you remove your OE shifter, there will be a round rubber piece that will be on the shifter. You can take a sharp blade, enlarge the opening just enough to slide it off the OE shifter.

Install it on the Hurst. When you complete the Hurst install, you will find that this rubber piece will fill out the hole in the thick rubber boot that covers the trans tunnel opening. This will help to insulate the interior from heat and noise.

If you don't do this, you may notice increased heat and noise in your interior, especially since you have an FRC.

This rubber piece will fill up the opening in the thick rubber cover. I used some silicone and joined these 2 pieces. Sorry, but I didn't take any pics when I did this.

Also, while your console is off, you can install some thin heat / noise insulation underneath the carpeting. I placed some material on the sides of the tunnel all the way to behind the seats and on top of the tunnel. You'll notice some reduced interior temps by taking the time to do this.

Some people will install a shorter shifter boot for more $$$. If you want to shorten your OE shifter boot simply take the top of the boot, and push it "outside in", which will reduce the height of the boot approximately 1". It looks pretty good on the shortened stick.

Hope that helps. :chevy

 

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

I love my Hurst.

Changing the springs is a five minute job - Just pop off the boot, no need to take off the console. Therefore, use trial and error for the springs. Using both springs can make it pretty tight.

One experience I had - After I installed the Hurst, but before I re-installed the console, I tried to do a quick dry run through the gears (cold, engine off) and I just couldn't get it over into the reverse gate. I removed and reinstalled the shifter with great care and had the same problem. Frustrated, and about to call Mr. Gasket to bitch, I tried firing up the engine and it worked fine. From what little I know about shifters and transmissions it shouldn't have made a difference, but it did. Since then, I've had no problems, bit it is still hard to bust through the 5-6 to reverse gate unless the engine is running.

Good luck with the Hurst.

 

Use the Softest Springs (compress them with your fingers if your not sure which one is the softest) which will yield the closest OEM stock feel as far as firmness

 

Hi bud....can you detail how to just pop off the boot ..such as whats involved(anything need to be watched for chance of breakage?)

 

What type of material did you use , and how thick was it? :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

 

Ryan ,
I was in the same position as you were. Didnt want it too stiff, like the b&m.
some people only use one spring , or two springs one side, one on the other. Optimal for me was two springs on each side, the easiest springs there were. You can tell just by pushing on them. It works great!!
To date, it is my favorite mod to my car.
You will love it.

 

Like most people, and after trying them all, I settled on the lightest springs in my Hurst. Here's a useful tip though:

Fit the lightest springs before you install the shifter in the car ! A lot of times the little hex head bolts will spring off as you undo them and shoot into the depths of the transmission tunnel and be a real PITA to get out ! This way they should just drop onto your garage/kitchen floor and be easy to pick up.

 

If I could get this stupid "T" clamp out I would tell you. :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:

 

My Hurst rattles horribly with the light springs in there. The noise is very bothersome.....any fixes or cures. I put the stock springs in to get rid of the rattle but I miss the feel of the light springs.

Jeff