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I just did. I couldn't get the lug nut bolt torque up to 100 ft-lb. The stud just stretched until it snapped apart. There is another stud on the other side which isn't tightening either.
Anyone else experience this? What material are the stock studs on a 98 made of? Certainly doesn't look like steel to me. Are there upgraded lug nut studs? I wouldn't mind replacing them all if it will prevent this problem from occuring again.
I just did. I couldn't get the lug nut bolt torque up to 100 ft-lb. The stud just stretched until it snapped apart. There is another stud on the other side which isn't tightening either.
Anyone else experience this? What material are the stock studs on a 98 made of? Certainly doesn't look like steel to me. Are there upgraded lug nut studs? I wouldn't mind replacing them all if it will prevent this problem from occuring again.
Thanks,
Raymond
I have snapped off a lugg before (not on the vette though) they can be replaced.
If I were you I'd go have my torque wrench calibrated. I think it may be off a little. :cheers:
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Re: Anyone have lug nut stud snap? (jmzvet)
Did you use any anti-seize on the threads of the lug before tightening it?
I would NOT recommend you use anti-seize compund on the studs OR nuts. Clean dry hardware that's in good condition is all that's necessary. Depending on how many times you've had the wheels on/off, there may have been debris in the threads or possibly the stud threads themselves may have become slightly rounded from the dragging action across them by the wheel when installing/removing, etc. Check all the studs. If you see damage or excess wear then just replace all the studs AND nuts. The studs are relatively easy to replace.
Mallett sells replacement studs that are made of a diff material... I have replaced the fronts on my car and it was not too bad. The rears are a real PITA to get off though... :cry
Thanks for the replies. To answer a few questions, my torque wrench is fine. All three of my torque wrenches agree with each other. I always clean and lightly oil the threads (stud and bolt) before installing the lug nuts. My service manual says that the lug nuts should be 100 ft-lb. Has there been a change to the recommended torque? I've found replacement studs at Pep Boys which are made of a different (probably stronger) material. However, as vetterdstr states, replacing the rear studs is a PITA. Right now I am stuck at getting the lower ball joint separated. Anyone know of a way to do this without getting the tool (J42188) in the service manual?
Once you take off the nut on the lower ball joint, put the nut back on the bolt so all the threads are in contact with the nut. You will have a gap from the bottom of the nut to the top of the a-arm. Take a hammer and lightly hit the top of the nut until the a-arm is free. I was able to do this with a small ball peen hammer on both sides without using a pickle fork.
Are we talking about the same lower ball joint? Rear, correct? I can't tap the top of the ball joint stud because it is directly below the driveshaft. There is only about a 1/4 inch gap. Am I supposed to remove the driveshaft too? The service manual doesn't say to, but it isn't shown in any of the pictures, either.
Raymond
Once you take off the nut on the lower ball joint, put the nut back on the bolt so all the threads are in contact with the nut. You will have a gap from the bottom of the nut to the top of the a-arm. Take a hammer and lightly hit the top of the nut until the a-arm is free. I was able to do this with a small ball peen hammer on both sides without using a pickle fork.
Raymond,
The torque setting for the lug nuts is 100 ft lbs. its been that way since 1984 and maybe longer.
I haven't tried replacing one on the rear but I did do one on the front and did find a location that allowed me to hammer out the old nut and then get the new one in without removing the lower A arm. Maybe you could rotate the bearing around and see if you can find a similar location in the rear. Biggest problem wasn't getting the old one out since it was shorter after being broken off. The problem was getting the new one which is full length to clear part of the bearing mount after it was started in the hole. I found a spot that allowed me to thread it through the flange until the head cleared the bearing mount and then was able to pull it the rest of the way through with a backward lug nut over a flat washer.
Bill