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Took out the Hurst and modified the stock shifter, check archives, much better feel for me, and nearly as short a throw. you should really test drive if you can to see what you like.
i cut nearly an inch off my stock stick and it throws great. miuch more precise, and no cost at all. just leave enough to thread your **** tight 1 :party:
Modified stock :thumbs:
1) cut outer sleeve
2) remove rubber insulation
3) weld back the center core & tip w/ thread to accept shifter ball. (some peoples just thread the 2 end & bolt them back together)
I just cannot see how cutting the stock shaft is going to shorten the throw that much... that and the stock one does feel a bit sloppy to me.
I will do a search and see what i can find (i suck at searching)
Thanks for ALL the reply's!
Cutting the stock shaft will shorted the throw. That's all the after-market shifters are - a shortened shaft.
The stock shifter has some bushing (or some other vibration insulation in the shaft) which isolates the feel of the gates (as well as any drive train vibration) from your hand. This is why those who have not really learned the shift pattern (committed it to muscle memory) have an occassional problem with 3rd gear. They are counting on feel rather than muscle memory.
So cutting the stock shaft WILL get you part of what the others give you a shorter throw. If you really work on learning the feel and pattern with the stock shifter you can learn to never miss a shift.
The B&M and other shifters are basically a solid shaft. They permit a more direct link between hand and linkage. The feel of the gates is not masked, (nor is any drive train vibration (ususally not an issue)). These usually have stronger centering springs so they are more forgiving to those who do not have the shift pattern learned to the point that it's automatic. :cheers:
Everything is better than the stock shifter giving you more feel in the shifts and more exact shift but ........... you will shift slower, you will need more effort to shift, using these extreme short shaft shifters will have you hate your shifter after 10laps of a race. The short shaft is more of a fashion/looks thing, the short shaft itself does not make anything better rather worse.
Look inside any race car using a stick shifter and you will find that the shifter have a long shaft:
I did not make my shifter that extreme, I made my B&M shifter shaft about 2 inch longer and I'm extremely happy with the result. I have very exact and fast shifts with minimal effort. No problem even after 60laps at the track.
I assume I'm going against the common thought about shifters on this forum so I have my flame suit on :D
The short shaft is more of a fashion/looks thing, the short shaft itself does not make anything better rather worse.
:iagree:
I installed a Hurst (LOVE IT!!!) and cut it down another .5" because I can't stand the truck feel. Now, I love the way it feels, but it is a lot harder to shift because every gear is a tactile snap. The stock one just slid right in - no effort = faster.
And absolutely YES to the noise level increasing. I can now hear the road/drivetrain noise a bit more because there is no seal now - the stock shifter has a rubber seal that inhibits the transfer of noise and temp to the cabin. Anyone who has a Hurst in a C5 is full of :bs if he/she says nothing changed (sound-wise) after they installed it - unless they fashioned some sort of seal for it. OR, their C5 was so noisy before they changed it that they can't tell the difference..... OR, they're too old to hear it :jester
My C5 was 4 weeks old when I installed the Hurst. I noticed the noise level increase (not rattling) DURING THE CRANKING OF THE ENGINE on the FIRST STARTUP AFTER THE CHANGE.
Cutting the stock shaft will shorted the throw. That's all the after-market shifters are - a shortened shaft.
Not so quick, the aftermarket shifters are more than just a shorten shaft. The fulcrum is changed in some of the aftermarket shifters AS WELL AS the race shifters. The race shifters are long with a short lever past the fulcrum. Thus short shifts with a moved shorter fulcrum point, and long handle for decreased effort. Try cutting down the shifter on the C5R to the length of a B&M shifter, bet ya have a hard time shiften it!
I found simply by changing the **** to a round, black billet ****, shifting was much more positive. Also, a tune with the Predator eliminated the CAGS which was also a major improvement. Of course, this didn't shorten the throw.