hotchkis
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: DFW tx
Re: hotchkis (C5-VERT)
Torque them to spec in slow fluid motions, several times on each bolt. The way the locknuts are, if you torque too fast, you will get incorrect torque readings.
When I installed mine, they started "clunking" after a week. I pulled the wheels and retorqued -- haven't made a noise in over a year.
When I installed mine, they started "clunking" after a week. I pulled the wheels and retorqued -- haven't made a noise in over a year.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 1
From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: hotchkis (Jeff Jeff)
:iagree:
These guys are both right. It happens when switching to GM metal end links too. If you don't get them tight enough, they will creek like mad.
We don't like the type of locking nuts that they use as they make it harder to torque as well as make it harder to remove when we need to disconnect end links to adjust corner weights or bar pre-load. We replace them with Nyloc nuts, which are easier to tighten and to remove, but stay torqued.
These guys are both right. It happens when switching to GM metal end links too. If you don't get them tight enough, they will creek like mad.
We don't like the type of locking nuts that they use as they make it harder to torque as well as make it harder to remove when we need to disconnect end links to adjust corner weights or bar pre-load. We replace them with Nyloc nuts, which are easier to tighten and to remove, but stay torqued.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,375
Likes: 406
From: Florida
Re: hotchkis (C5stein)
Mark, could you provide the specs on the substitute locknuts for the hotchkis? I am assuming 5/8 fine thread, grade 8 nylock, but just wanted to be sure. Also, what torquesspec would I use on the Nylock? I don't even recall seeing a torque spec with my hotchkis bars. Thanks - MTS
PS - I f you don't have all this no problem. I'll find it instead of being lazy. :D :D
[Modified by TTRotary, 5:51 PM 4/16/2003]
PS - I f you don't have all this no problem. I'll find it instead of being lazy. :D :D
[Modified by TTRotary, 5:51 PM 4/16/2003]
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 3
From: SoCal
Re: hotchkis (pdd000)
The GM torque specs are on my page. They will be the same irreguardless of which bar you use.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=16
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=16
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 1
From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: hotchkis (TTRotary)
TTRotary
The nyloc nuts are either 5/8 - 20 or 1/2 - 20 and grade 5 or grade 8 is not critical in this situation. I can't recal the size as it has been almost one week since I did my last one.
I think we torque them to about 55 foot lbs. There isn't a torque spec in the instructions.
The nyloc nuts are either 5/8 - 20 or 1/2 - 20 and grade 5 or grade 8 is not critical in this situation. I can't recal the size as it has been almost one week since I did my last one.
I think we torque them to about 55 foot lbs. There isn't a torque spec in the instructions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 2
Re: hotchkis (pdd000)
Mine "clanked" when first installed....it turned out that the front bar had shifted over an inch from center and was hitting the frame. I installed a couple of 1/4" wide collars to keep it centered....no more noises. :cheers:
[Modified by HIGHRPM, 12:13 PM 4/17/2003]
[Modified by HIGHRPM, 12:13 PM 4/17/2003]