Can you lower the rear of the car without cutting the stock bushings. I searched on archives and the threads all seemed to suggest cutting the bushings. I want to lower the car, but not sure how it will agree with the driveway. If it doesnt work out, I'll have to change back to stock height.

 

Yes, you can. You can start by just loosening the nuts on the stock bolts. Loosen them until there is 2 threads showing above the nut. There is a safety clip at the end of the bolt, so don't worry about the nut coming off when driving. This should lower the car a little less than an inch.

If you want it lower, go to a hardware store, and get yourself two 1/2" x 6.5" or 7" long grade 8 hex head bolts, and two nylon locknuts that fit the bolt. Remove your stock bolts, put the bushings on the new bolts, and install the longer bolts. Depending on what length you get will affect how much you can lower it, but the looser the nut is on the bolt, the lower the car will be. A 6.5" long bolt with a few threads showing above the nut should drop the car about 2" or so. Tighten the nut more for less lowering, loosen the nut more to lower it more.

:cheers:


[Modified by Y2Kvert4me, 12:35 AM 4/18/2003]

 

I did exactly what Tom (Y2Kvert4me) stated and it worked perfect. I purchased (2) 1/2"x6.5" fine thread bolts with nylon locknuts and (4) large diameter 1/2" washers and started with about 3/8" of threat showing on the top. I would definitely get the fine thread bolts if you can. I haven't had a chance to set the car on the ground and make the final adjustments yet because its still on jackstands.

I have seen numerous posts about the rear bolts being 9/16" (wrong!) my factory bolts were 1/2".

 

Empty,
If you go by GM's recommendation they say to lower each side an equal amount to maintain the trim level. So if your stock bolts are 8 threads down on one side and 10 threads down on the other side, you would loosen both sides 6 threads. One side would end up showing 2 threads and the other side would show 4 threads. Stock bolts will not necessarily show the same amount of threads from the factory.
Having said all that, I lowered mine so the car was the same height as measured at the fenders. This not the trim height. I lowered different amounts side to side.
You do not want to cut the rear bushings. The bushings are there for a reason. If needed, get longer bolts and washers and nuts. The stock bolts are 6" long but are only threaded to 5 1/2". So a normal 6 1/2" bolt will give you 1" lower than the stock bolt. The stock rear bolts will give you about a 1" drop.
Try lowering the car with the stock adjusters all the way and drive it for a while. Then decide from there.
Someone on this thread said the stock rear bolts were 1/2" diameter and not 9/16". He is absolutely right! At least the ones from my '99 and 2002 are. I am looking at them right now.
Good luck with it.
Dave

 

i bought new 6 in bolts fot my car but the thread goes all the way to the top unlike the stock bolts i also cut the bushings off......dont do it cause the ride is terrible but my car lowered like 2 1/2 inches. once i get a new socket to take the wheels off im gonna put the bushings back in
martin

 

if I lower mine using stock bolts, will I still need an alignment?
:cheers:

 

No one in this thread has mentioned the lowering of the front as yet so i will jump in here to provide my .02 worth.

If you are going to lower the rear aggressively does that compliment an aggressive lowering of the front?

Are you cutting the bushings on the front or just turning the bolts until they seat aginst the bushings?

I have lowered front only to the bushings, no cutting.

If you lower the rear a lot more that the front you will end up with a very bad ride.

The car has a natural stance that is provided by the 17inch front and 18inch rear wheels.

If you adjust the stance too far from what is stock you will feel like you are riding around with a trunk full of bricks.

Good luck with your mod and keep us posted.

 

Black,
This question has been asked a thousand times. :yesnod:
There is no way anyone can know if the car needs to be aligned. It depends entirely on what the alignment settings were before the car was lowered.
Who knows if the car is within specs before it is lowered?
The alignment settings (toe, caster, and camber) will change quite a bit after the car is lowered.
Have it checked and aligned to the specs you want. The folks here will help you with that (specs).
Dave