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I have read past posts and have gotten plenty of info for lowering the rear.
So far what I know for the REAR:
Need Two 1/2inch x 6.5" or 7" long fine threaded grade 8 hex head bolts, four large diameter 1/2inch washers, and two nylon locknuts. Read that with a couple of threads left on the 6.5" bolt it should lower the rear around 2inches.
I cant find any info for the FRONT. Buy same size bolts? Or use the stock bolts and cut the bushing? If yes, then how much of the bushing needs to be cut to match a 2" drop in the rear?
By the way, my wheels are gonna be 19"/20" with 245/35/19 and 285/30/20 rubber. So not sure how much I need to lower it, just want to fill the gap up.
Yes it can be lowered by leaving a few threads showing on the stock bolts...but lowers ride height only about 3/4 inch on the rear. By replacing stock bolts with longer ones means you can lower it even more.
Follow those instructions for the front and you will be just fine. Make sure you get all the bolts tight when your done, there have been some pretty bad stories were people have not tightened there front enough. Also after you lower make sure you drive it to let it settle before you start the fine adjusting.
If you don't cut you will get around 1"-1.5" If you cut you get more like 2" and some say 2.5". Most people that don't cut usually come back and do it later because they want to go lower. You can always go back up win no problem.
i have mine lowered all the way front and back on the stock bolts without cutting the front bushings. it still has a large gap front and back, so now I have to get longer bolts for the back and but i still don't think i will cut the front bushings. the car should should look more even front to back, right now, it looks a little higher in the back.
does anyone know if I have to get it realigned after dropping it a little more? it was aligned after the first drop.
ride quality is much softer but still firm than my friend's car with longer bolts out back and cut bushings out front.
another thing i saw the other day, c5 with no bolts in the front, he said he only had occasional problems when turning the wheel all the way, but his front end was scraped quite a bit underneath ( no the dam, the body)
Re: Another question about lowering... (r1hooligan)
does anyone know if I have to get it realigned after dropping it a little more?
Yes you should get it realigned even though you only went a little bit it still affects your adjustments.
another thing i saw the other day, c5 with no bolts in the front, he said he only had occasional problems when turning the wheel all the way, but his front end was scraped quite a bit underneath ( no the dam, the body)
That is nuts! I would not suggest that to anyone in fact I would have to see it to believe it those bolts have to be there to hold the spring in place.
Also if r1hooligan if I was you I would cut the bushings. It is not to much trouble if you are fairly handy and you can always go back up. Just seems to me that without cutting you can't get low enough. Also I kind of like the front to be just a tad lower than the rear, mostly for looks but some for aerodynamic proposes.
I was not there when the mechanic lowered my car. . .but I don't think you need anything. The Vette can be lowered on the stock bolts? :confused:
I can double-check this evening.
Correct. You can lower the car on the stock bolts. Me and Amandasguy lowered his the past weekend and it dropped about 1 1/2 inches or so. Still trying to decide if I wanna lower mine or not.
How far it lowers depends on your suspension. Z51 will not go as low as F45 when turning down the front bolts and loosening the rear bolts. I have Z51 and lowered it as far as it would go with stock bolts and it dropped just over an inch.
I added 1/2"x6.5" Grade-8 Fine Thread bolts ($6) in the rear and cut 2/3 of the bushings in the front. This should be plenty for my taste. Cutting the bushings in front won't really hurt the ride quality, plus if its too low just turn them in a bit to raise it back up. You get the best of both worlds.
NOTE: You DO NOT have to remove any suspension components to cut the front bushings. There is plenty of room to reach through the lower A-arm to get to the bushings. Jack up the front and place it on jack stands allowing the suspension to hang down. Use a small bottle jack under the spring to raise it slightly to take the presure off of the bushing. Use a course hacksaw blade and a little lube and its done in about 15 minutes for both sides.
I haven't had a chance to set it down yet (see sig) but I will definitely post pics when I do.
Something I'm not clear on...does the front bushing/bolt need to be removed in order to do this? This seems to be a lot easier than the above posted link.
For the rear bolts...should I buy the bolts from a local hardware store or order a bolt kit? How many threads should be left to be safe but yet have a max drop?
NOTE: You DO NOT have to remove any suspension components to cut the front bushings. There is plenty of room to reach through the lower A-arm to get to the bushings. Jack up the front and place it on jack stands allowing the suspension to hang down. Use a small bottle jack under the spring to raise it slightly to take the presure off of the bushing. Use a course hacksaw blade and a little lube and its done in about 15 minutes for both sides.
[Modified by MTWallet, 6:52 PM 4/24/2003]
I wish I had read this before I followed the instructions in Tech Tips. I pulled the ball joint and ended up having some costly problems since then. There isn't a cotter pin holding the nut in place and I had mine rattle loose and the lower arm dropped down onto the wheel and screwed it up. Took both nuts off and loaded them down with Loctite and torqued them with my impact wrench. They won't be coming off again.
So definitely, don't remove the ball joint if you can cut it like mentioned above!
NOTE: You DO NOT have to remove any suspension components to cut the front bushings. There is plenty of room to reach through the lower A-arm to get to the bushings. Jack up the front and place it on jack stands allowing the suspension to hang down. Use a small bottle jack under the spring to raise it slightly to take the presure off of the bushing. Use a course hacksaw blade and a little lube and its done in about 15 minutes for both sides.
[Modified by MTWallet, 6:52 PM 4/24/2003]
MT,
When you cut the bushings with a hacksaw blade are you able to cut evenly across the bushing so it lays flat on the lower control arm?
I removed the bolts on mine. I wanted mine perfectly smooth all the way across. After cutting the bushing I filed it as flat and smooth as I could get it.
Dave
Re: Another question about lowering... (corvette dave)
I got mine pretty flat as long as you take your time. It doesn't have to be perfectly flat and smooth. You can still get a course file in there to clean up the end of the bushing when you are done. I used a course tooth hacksaw blade with a slight bend in it and some silicone spray lube to keep it sliding smooth. Just take your time and don't get in a hurry. As the rubber is being cut it heats up and causes the blade to get sticky.
I can't believe no-one else has ever thought of this before. As soon as I looked under there I saw that the bushing can be accessed without taking anything apart. Maybe I should do a write-up and post it in the tech section?
I can't believe no-one else has ever thought of this before. As soon as I looked under there I saw that the bushing can be accessed without taking anything apart. Maybe I should do a write-up and post it in the tech section?