I want to change my brake fluid to Motul 600. I've been told there are some tricks/difficulties in bleeding the brakes on a C5. Any good source of info?

 

There are not any problems with doing ABS equipped cars as long as the res. never runs dry.


[Modified by SHOWTIME!, 12:22 PM 4/26/2003]

 

No problem changing brake fluid. I run the Motul RBF 600. I run about 3 pints thru about 4 times a year and 1 pint minimum thru just before each race. I use one of the Motive Products Power Bleeders that you pump by hand. A little bit of a pain to hook up and seal on the reservior, but makes for an easy one man job.


[Modified by 99 C5 Coupe, 2:57 AM 4/27/2003]

 

Try some speedbleeders from http://www.speedbleeder.com


Here is the procedure from the GM manual for 01 and newer vettes:

Notice the brake bleed order. RR,LF, LR and RF.

I would get all of the old fluid out that you can of the reservoir first with a turkey baster.

Steps 1-3 are for bleeding the master cylinder.

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm, when cap removal is necessary.

5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, then install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.

6. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

7. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain pedal position.

8. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.

9. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

10. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-9 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.

11. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

12. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

13. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

14. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.

15. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

16. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

17. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection .
Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.

18. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.

19. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.

 

Thank you for the help. I am new to the Z06; my usual toy is a Viper GTS Coupe. On my first session at PIR, I noticed the brakes fade after about 5-6 laps. They came back after a period between sessions. In the past, the first and least expensive step is to replace the brake fluid with Motul, which is what I want to do. Two local T1 Corvette contenders have also advised me to place stainless front brake lines, which is also not too bad. Their brand recommendation agrees with what I find in the forum (also DOT approved).

As a second step, I would like to have front ducts which point at the caliper. The Rippie system does not allow for lock to lock wheel turning. Does anyone know a way to route ducting from either the Z06 OEM duct or a NACA duct to the caliper without interfering with OEM wheel limits?