I just got done cutting out the cigarette lighter part of the console and moving the airconditioning controls down to where the cigarette lighter was. Obviously to do this I had to disconnect the wires to the air conditioning controls and then reconnect them after I had mounted the controls. The control that lets you switch between output at the head, output at the head/feet, defroster etc is not working. The temperature controls and the other controls work fine. Any ideas why this happened? Its summer and I need a functional air conditioner :(

 

ttt - someone will have an answer

 

thanks hopefully someone will

 

Recheck your wiring and make sure the right connectors are solidly snapped in in the right spot.

 

I am having the exact same problem

Haven't felt like taking the dash panel off again, did you get yours fixed?

 

i can tell you why this happened, because you fuxored with a perfectly good car.


i'm glad you think you've earned your napa certification :rolleyes:

next time pay a professional, bob villa


[Modified by mor thn u can afford, 12:40 AM 6/3/2003]

 

Well some people are just a**holes ... you ask for help and they give you wise crack comments like this.

msuc5vette --> nope haven't gotten it fixed yet and I too do not feel like taking the dash apart again. Please let me know if you ever get around to solving the problem I'll do likewise for you


[Modified by calivette, 8:18 PM 6/2/2003]

 

(The following assumes you have a manual AC system, and not the dual zone)

Your main vacuum feed for the HVAC (heat and AC controller) head is misconnected or has become disconnected. The head unit uses engine vacuum to change the mode of the HVAC unit from defrost to dash to floor vents.

It's been a while since I've been back there, but I *think* it's the purple vacuum line running to the back of the HVAC head unit -- check it. Make sure it has engine vacuum when the engine is running. That same line has a junction behind the glovebox -- make sure you didn't accidentaly pull it apart there when you were disassembling the unit.

Good luck,
Kent

 

Wow, Class act! Don't see the point in being on the forum if you wrap your car in gauze instead of having fun improving it.

 

Thanks for the reply Kent, I have the auto climate on mine, I had thought this might be the problem. Does the auto climate us a different method to open and close the baffles?

 

I posted this topic earlier but I had no AC/Heater at all. 'C5 Tech' chimed in and said a commom problem with the head unit is currosion on the plug wires.

 

I smell a :troll

 

Try this..
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Re-Calibrating Actuators After Power Loss
Circuit Description
The HVAC Control Assembly receives an actuator position signal from the RH and LH electric actuators. The electric actuator position sensor is a potentiometer that is tied to a 5 volt reference source through CKT 1791 and to ground through CKT 1798, both from the HVAC Control Assembly. The variable output from the potentiometer feeds back a position signal to a pull-up resistor located in the HVAC Control Assembly. This signal is used to determine the necessary drive signal to the electric actuator motor to provide the proper air mix door position. This value is stored in the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) portion of the HVAC Control Assembly.

. Reinitialization can be easily executed by removing the HVAC CON MiniFuse® #27 from the Instrument Panel Electrical Center and then reinstalling the fuse back into its proper position. When the HVAC Control Assembly is first connected to power, the system will perform an initialization routine lasting approximately 60 seconds. During this routine, both RH and LH electric actuators will cycle full travel in both directions learning the end positions. Position feedback readings are sent back to the HVAC Control Assembly and compared to a range of acceptable end readings. If during initialization the position feedback readings are not within the acceptable range, a diagnostic code will be set. If the position feedback readings reach values of 0-5 counts or 250-255 counts, the HVAC Control Assembly will then interpret the reading as a "feedback-short" or "feedback-open" condition respectively. NOTE: Feedback-short or feedback-open conditions can occur due to electric actuators being initialized while not being attached to the HVAC module case.

 

CHECK YOUR BATTERY FOR LEAKING!! The vacuum hoses as well as electrical connections run under the battery.

Don't take a chance, any regular lead-acid battery can leak. I had a DELCO leak in a new Pontiac Bonneville. In your C5 if it leaks, the computer and the wiring harness can be toast ! They are located directly under the battery.

I replaced my DELCO with a Champion XLT (AGM Battery) size/number DT35/CHXDT35 made by Exide. Got it at SAMS Club for $90-95. It has 690 CCA, 850 CA, a 36 month free replacement and free jump-start, and a 108 month limited warranty.

 

This sound pretty easy, just pull the fuse and let it figure itself out?

I will try it tomorrow, I have disconnected and reconnected my battery already, should that have fixed it, or does it have to be the fuse pull while the battery is connected?

 

I have a similar problem, I get air from all my vents at all times when a/c is on. I tried the pull fuse trick and nothing happened. What else could be wrong.


[Modified by lost, 2:30 PM 6/9/2003]

 

msuc5vette --> so did you try pulling the fuse yet?

lost --> did you try kent's suggestion yet?

I'm going to try fixing mine this weekend will let you guys know what happens


[Modified by calivette, 9:19 PM 6/9/2003]

 

Vacuum line is kinked, or not connected.

 

Where do I look to find the missing or kinked connection? Have climate control

Tried pulling fuse 27, it did nothing.