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I would follow the admonition in your service manual section on brakes that replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. The service manual has quite detailed procedures for working on these brakes, and I think it best to follow their instructions explicitly.
Just curious, how much are those Grade 8 Stainless bolts? Most stainless is between grade 2 and 3, and that is pretty expensive.
I am not a metalurgist or how ever ya spell it, but I would stay with the stock GM bolts for a number of reasons. One, we know they work! second the new ones come with the proper locktite already on them.
Oh! wait are you talking about the Caliper it's self or the Caliper bracket.
There are problems with SS bolts into certain materials. such as SS into SS (will sometimes lock without lock tight) same for SS into aluminum. and if you locktite it? Forgettabout it!
Caliper bolts? I would stay with the GMs for the same reasons. The caliper bolts are low torque and carry only the weight of the caliper. Now the brackets are a different story completely, they carry the entire braking load As the brackets carry the pads. The caliper only provides the clamp pressure.
Just curious, how much are those Grade 8 Stainless bolts? Most stainless is between grade 2 and 3, and that is pretty expensive.
Do you have corrosion concerns?
Actually it's easier for me to use the stainless because thier bountiful at work. But being they are the caliper mounting bolts I'll just go with the old Generals part.
I know the service manual says replace them but there isn't a dealer out there that doesn't re-use them. It's hard to find one the won't talk you out of buying new bolts.
they are not aluminum bolts that stretch, so why can't you re-use them.
I've replaced rotors 4-5 times with the same bolts.
Just make sure they are properly torqued to 125 ft. lbs.
I know the service manual says replace them but there isn't a dealer out there that doesn't re-use them. It's hard to find one the won't talk you out of buying new bolts.
they are not aluminum bolts that stretch, so why can't you re-use them.
I've replaced rotors 4-5 times with the same bolts.
Just make sure they are properly torqued to 125 ft. lbs.
[Modified by Gary2KC5, 10:28 PM 6/9/2003]
I guess just got caught up in te new rotors and pads/new bolts and hardware scheme of things. Thanks for the replies.
:iagree: Every one is absolutely right. Everyone reuses the GM bolts all the time. By the nature of the part and the safety, GM covers it's bases by saying to use new bolts, and there is a streach effect at 125 FT/LBS. And the new ones come with their own brand of Locktite. We do need to make a distinction between the bracket bolts and the caliper bolts. For the most part the bracket bolts take ALL the braking load, and the caliper bolts just hold the calipers in position to squeeze the pads. Looking at the layout the bracket bolts require high sheer strength as opposed to tensil strength.
I reuse my bracket bolts also, with a good locktight. I also reuse the caliper bolts, but in many pad kits they give you new bolts for the calipers. Actually they give you one per caliper, as you are supposed to take one out and rotate the caliper to take the pads out.
To be fair, I think giving any advice other than what the book says is a bit on the edge. Soooo it is actually up to you!
For info only I found a Catapiller vender that sells all types/sizes of grade eight hardware for 1/3rd the price of most dealers. Look for a cat dealership near your location.
Hum, Can't remember, Getten old :cry I have always taken the entire thing off myself because I was changing rotors as well. I think it may be the top bolt and the caliper rotates back on the slider clearing the pads. You can look and see which way you have the most room to rotate the caliper.
Jer
Actually they give you one per caliper, as you are supposed to take one out and rotate the caliper to take the pads out.
Which one are you supposed to take out????.....So the calipers don't have to come off to change the pads? :confused:
These cars are complex. IMO, You should have a year specific service manual for your car if you are going to do any actual work on the car. The service manuals are cheap and provide specific step-by-step directions for inspections, repair, and avoiding health hazards (brake dust). Why risk your life, or you car, by "winging it"?
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On the front caliper, it is the top bolt that is removed, after compression of the caliper with a c-clamp. Rotor is first secured to Hub with wheel lug nuts. Caliper is rotated outwards and supported to keep weight off the flexible hose while the pads are changed.
On the rear, a similar process, but both bolts are removed and the caliper is slid off.
You should have access to the proper service manual before working on these cars.
I just changed my front pads and rotors so I will clear a few things up:
To change front pads the only bolt that needs to come off is the top Caliper Guide Pin Bolt.
To change the rotors, both Guide Pin Bolts need to come off as well as both Caliper Mounting Bolts. The caliper guide pin bolts are 23 ft./lbs. and the mounting bolts are 125 ft./lbs.
Though the book says to, none of these bolts needs to be replaced. However, new stock pads come with two replacement bolts, so you may as well replace the top guide pin bolts since you have them out anyway.
:iagree: Yup, I have done a bunch of brake jobs on the C5s, and it is not that big a deal. Just make sure you follow the torque specs and test drive it before you go out on the highway. On the first change, I did purchase new bracket bolts like the book said. Sometimes their reasons are not always that upfront. I figure, I do a lot of very highspeed driving, and autocrossing. Rather than to try and second guess them, I just paid the money and did it. On subsquent changes I used the same bolts, and High Temp Red Locktight. The pads I used in the past were very agressive and I had to replace the rotors as well each time. I have been through 3 complete sets, and have 100700 miles on her.