Title says it all!

I currently have H/C package on my A4 and dyno 392rwhp and 401rwtq SAE corrected.

I've been kicking around the idea to go FI since January after getting the H/C done, and I know with the ATI I would have some nice #'s, but a little concerned with belt slipping and 1/4 times not representative of the dyno #'s.

Now I'm thinking about stroker. The price difference between a 418 and 382 is only 1k. The price difference between 418 - 427 is not much either....

Which would you go with?

My car is not a daily driver, however, it is used primarily on the street (and see's the drag strip once a week) and needs to have decent manners (i.e., fairly smooth idle...under 1k rpm, no emmission hassels, no stalling with A/C). Not interested in the solid cam as too aggressive for my needs and maintenance would be a PAI with lashings etc.

I have recently heard of some using 4.125 stroker crank with stock displacement. Would it better to just get a re-sleeved short block with bore??? :confused: :confused:

 

stroker :yesnod:

 

Sven,
I would do a stroker with a 150 shot for the dragstrip....or I would do a 346cid with one of the Twin Turbos that have become available. I will be testing the TTi system out on a 346 cid here shortly...I can not tell you how it works yet..but it looks very promising and I am willing to be the guinea pig.

If Turbos aren't your thing...and they were not mine at first until Xtreme made me an offer I could not refuse...I was building an Iron Block Big Bore for use with a 200+ shot of NOS. I ran into a lot of frustration witnessing the ATI's poor performance at the track when the Dyno numbers are huge.

However in ATI's defense....there are 2-3 different bracket assemblies and pully replacents that have yielded some promising results at the track. But the ATI when used as is will not turn the times that it should when compared to the power it makes on the dyno.

Stick with the Stroker or wait until I can run this TTi through the ringer..it might turn out to be the HOT TICKET.

 

Sven,
The best all around street/strip performance and the best bang for the bucks is an iron block 427 stroker motor (4.060" bore X 4.125" stroke)... It is very reliable and will take large nitrous shots as well. There are several excellent tuners on this forum that can provide this for you. Contact me for more information.
Shirl
SDRE

 

What's the advantages of an iron block vs. reseleeved aluminum block? :confused: Better reliability/longevity should I decide to spray?

Also, while I'm at it, what about heads? I was thinking about using my Stage I/II CNC heads and possibly have MTI turn them into their Stage III heads, but wonder if it would be worth that addition $$ to just buy Stage III LS6 heads... what kind of a hp difference would I see for almost an extra $2k over the Stage III LS1 heads, 15-20rwhp?? If that's all, it doesn't look like a worthwhile expenditure....


[Modified by SvenOdin, 6:13 PM 6/11/2003]

 

...I think you know I struggled with this descision myself not to long ago.. :rolleyes: ...I STROKED it!! I'm Very happy I did..Lot's of torque and If I ever need more I'll spray 100 shot..Just my opinion of course.. :yesnod: ...Now all you will need is TRACTION :lol:

 

Also it is kind of a personal choice. I went with the stroker because I love the response of a naturally aspirated engine, power at impact. However I run around with the Buick Grand National crowd and let me tell you, their beasts are quite impressive, especially the one that runs mid-9's. Both have their points and it is just how you percieve what you want. Damn confusing aren't I? :lol:

 

Shirl or some of the other tuners can tell you the importance of having heads that will flow for the bigger inches, if you do the iron block it is considerably less expensive than an alum block, and there is no exchange so you have an extra motor to keep or sell, I am dumping FI and waiting for my 436 NA as we speak, I may throw a 100 to 150 shot on it for the strip, if I stayed small I would be doing what Kevin is doing and going with one of the available (and more affordable) TT kits, for brut power that is obviously the way to go as we can only get so many cubes out of these small blocks.

 

Just do a built bottom end heads/cam combo and spend the money you save on the crank on a direct port nitrous kit.

 

Well, I want more power for the street:crazy: If I were to spend the $$ on building the bottom end, I might as well go bigger.


I thought about the TTi kit, but if I were to have issues/problems later on down the road, Extreme is not next door...

The iron block sounds like a good option as I can keep my current block :thumbs: Need to start e-mailing some vendor/tunners :reddevil

Thanks for the input!
:cheers:

 

I personally think the aluminum block is the best way to go. You can squeak a bunch more bore out of a resleeved aluminum block over a steel block. More Bore means More HP in my mind. Also, I dont care to add 80lbs to the front of my car for a steel block. And I have been told by a VERY reputable LS1 Engine Builder that going 4.060" bore on a steel block is too much on about 80% of the steel 6.0L blocks that are built. This was proven with various tests for block strength and thickness.

However, if you go relseeved aluminum, you have to definitely go with a vendor's resleeved block that has proven its strength and reliability over and over. There has been a lot of problems out there with different resleeved blocks and I truly feel not many builders have it down to a science yet. I do know that ARE has their resleeves down to a science.. They have went down the 1/4 in 9.25 seconds with the resleeved 422 in their C5 over a year ago and are now approaching mid 8's with the 422 in their silver Z28. I have also not heard of one sleeve problem from any of their customers in WELL over a year and there are a LOT of them out there.

Feel free to drop me an email if you have any questions about any of Agostino Racing's big cube LS1 offerings, even if you do decide to go steel.




[Modified by MattG, 12:04 PM 6/12/2003]

 

:iagree: With Matt, so substitute for good cubes, you can make more power with FI, and I would go TT if that were the case but on the street it is unusable power and if you are saving it for the strip run a shot of NOS, and have a more drivable car on the street with a lot less crap to deal with--you will be happy which ever way you go.

 

SvnOdin,

I can really relate to where your coming from, I was there for the last 4 weeks until last weekend.
I can honestly state your best information will come from your own research and talking with all the tuners/vendors for your needs and expectations. Sometimes it will take 2-3 times talking to a tuner, keep a note book full of questions and answers. (It helps especially in the middle of the night when you wake up drooling over what will be in the future and you have more questions)

FI is Sweet but why not the best of both worlds - Stroker & FI

A stock motor or even H/C cars with stock bottom end wont take much, trust me on this one... The way i looked at it (basically)
A crank is a Crank - cost is all about the same no matter what this size
cam is a cam - cost is all the same no matter what size
Heads are heads - Cost all ranges in the same ball park no matter who's/size
if your gonna get your block machined for a 382/396/418/422/427/436 its all about the same cost

So do what you feel and what you learn to be your best bet, and what works for you, research and more research will go a long way.

After many weeks of emails, research, phone calls, and several CF members I have decided to go with I thought was my best bet for what I want out of the car - 427 Iron :cool:

Now was my time to find a tuner or vendor to build or supply me with parts or a complete motor... After several conversations/emails/faxes with a lot of different companies big and small I made my decision. I have decided to go with Shirl Dickey (SDRE)

I went with him mainly because his knowledge, his willing to take the time to talk to me via phone and emails - (for hours), he wasn't out there to push the sale on me, gave me plenty of time or opportunities to do what I needed to do. There was no delay on getting the information I asked, as if it was sitting on the top of his head. And his pricing is very competitive!!! Believe me when I say there were many disappointments out there, anywhere from a sales manager not knowing what he was selling, to a Gentleman Yawning about 30 times in my ear as we were discussing a sale, to one company being so far out of the pricing ballpark 5,000 k over anyone!!! (I rather not say who was who but they should know who they are and when someone is about to spend 10K+ you think that person might be a little more knowledgeable in what he/ sells and a little more awake on the phone)

I guess my main point is go with whom you feel the best and most confident in, but only after you do your research, I had many people tell me to go with certain tuners and trust me that wasn't the case, well for me anyways.

But I do recommend Shirl Dickey and he is currently Building my 427
Whomever you decide to go with I wouldn't make the decision without talking to him.

Stroker all the way!!!

P.S. you can also check my original post - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=572092


Hope that helps a little

Mike :seeya

 

MTI 422 baby!! :yesnod: