Changing my M6 tranny fluid?
My M6 is a little difficult going into first, third and sometimes second. I heard that changing over the M6 fluid to synthetic and also using the additive would help a great deal with smoothing out the shifting. What brand and weight should I get?
I know its a six speed but it still came with AC Delco ATF in it. ATF is not uncommon in manual transmissions.
Using something else could be uncompatible with the soft parts in the transmission causing leaks and premature wear.
You will be amazed by how the tranny feels after putting in a good synthetic ATF.
You should change differential gear oil as well. Redline 75-90 with the limited slip additive.
Using something else could be uncompatible with the soft parts in the transmission causing leaks and premature wear.
You will be amazed by how the tranny feels after putting in a good synthetic ATF.
You should change differential gear oil as well. Redline 75-90 with the limited slip additive.
I used GM synchormesh synthetic for my dealer and I was really pleased the way it turned out. Really smooth and deffortless. No more clunky felling when changing gears, just slides right through. :thumbs:
WOW!! I never knew that ATF was used in the M6... I guess you learn something every day.... I'll have to go out and get some Moble 1... HOw much will it hold when I drain it? That's assuming there is a drain plug..:rolleyes:
[Modified by SLICKMAN, 7:32 PM 7/13/2003]
I know its a six speed but it still came with AC Delco ATF in it. ATF is not uncommon in manual transmissions.
Using something else could be uncompatible with the soft parts in the transmission causing leaks and premature wear.
You will be amazed by how the tranny feels after putting in a good synthetic ATF.
You should change differential gear oil as well. Redline 75-90 with the limited slip additive.
Using something else could be uncompatible with the soft parts in the transmission causing leaks and premature wear.
You will be amazed by how the tranny feels after putting in a good synthetic ATF.
You should change differential gear oil as well. Redline 75-90 with the limited slip additive.
[Modified by SLICKMAN, 7:32 PM 7/13/2003]
Le Mans Master



Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 0
From: Athens Ohio
SE Ohio Event Coordinator
CI-V Car Show Winner
Cruise-In II Veteran
Cruise-In III Veteran
Curise-In V Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
I didn't see ypur post untill after I posted about changing the fluid. Mine held about 3.9 quarts. Stated capacity is 4.1 but it's hard to get all the old stuff out. I used Mobil 1 and it is compatible with any Dexron III fluid that might be left in the tranny. It made a huge difference.
I used GM synchormesh synthetic for my dealer and I was really pleased the way it turned out. Really smooth and deffortless. No more clunky felling when changing gears, just slides right through. :thumbs:
Smooth as silk :smash:
Team Owner






Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 29,937
Likes: 22
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Cruise-In 1-2-3-4-5 Veteran
Sounds like I may be doing this. I have half a case of D4 ATF left from when I had my '93 automatic.
Like Slickman posted, does the trans have an easily-accessible drain plug? What kind of fill is it - is it one of those side holes where you just pour in until the fluid is up to the level of the hole?
~MB
Like Slickman posted, does the trans have an easily-accessible drain plug? What kind of fill is it - is it one of those side holes where you just pour in until the fluid is up to the level of the hole?
~MB
Slickman,
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my 6spd, which does shift smoother than the OEM that was in there at 36k miles. It might just be smoother because the fluid is new vs. what was in there. I bought 5 qts, and the tranny took just under 4 (perhaps 3.9 as others say).
I had Redline Synthetic 75w/90 put in the rear diff a week ago--that's what the shop on hand, can't say I notice anything from that. Well, I do notice peace of mind, since the fluids are clean.
Take care,
Karl
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my 6spd, which does shift smoother than the OEM that was in there at 36k miles. It might just be smoother because the fluid is new vs. what was in there. I bought 5 qts, and the tranny took just under 4 (perhaps 3.9 as others say).
I had Redline Synthetic 75w/90 put in the rear diff a week ago--that's what the shop on hand, can't say I notice anything from that. Well, I do notice peace of mind, since the fluids are clean.
Take care,
Karl
Wow, i'm glad to hear all this. I often have a hard time getting into 1st and thought it was my Hurst? Guess not. I didn't have my stock shifter in long enough to see if it happened with that as well.
Great info.
Great info.
When you have a hard time getting it into first, does it sometimes grind a little because it was not all the way engaged and you thought it was?
Wow, i'm glad to hear all this. I often have a hard time getting into 1st and thought it was my Hurst? Guess not. I didn't have my stock shifter in long enough to see if it happened with that as well.
Great info.
Great info.
Just did it this weekend.
ON a lift is the easiest without a doubt.
Make sure you can loosen the fill plug first, if you can't then draining the fluid first will be a mistake.
Second loosen the drain plug then the fill plug.
Reapply nylon to the two bolts while the fluid is draining.
You need a pump to pour the new tranny fluid in the fill plug. Right when you get to the 3 quart it might be getting full already. Stick your finger in the fill plug you can sometimes feel the fluid if it is almost to the top.
You are done!! Cheers!! :cheers:
ON a lift is the easiest without a doubt.
Make sure you can loosen the fill plug first, if you can't then draining the fluid first will be a mistake.
Second loosen the drain plug then the fill plug.
Reapply nylon to the two bolts while the fluid is draining.
You need a pump to pour the new tranny fluid in the fill plug. Right when you get to the 3 quart it might be getting full already. Stick your finger in the fill plug you can sometimes feel the fluid if it is almost to the top.
You are done!! Cheers!! :cheers:
You need a pump to pour the new tranny fluid in the fill plug.
Just go to Walmart or any auto supply store and get a small hand pump it doesn't cost very much. Put one end in the fluid container and the other in the fill hole and pump. it isn't a big deal, it should take you about two minutes to get it done. I will run out when it is full, just about in the middle of the fourth can.
Roofless,
Just changed mine used Mobil 1 snytheic, shifts like butter. Heat is the natural enemy to th MN6 and 12. Below is an article on the Z/06 which address MN6 and MN12 design (transmission mounted in the rear). Article is from http://www.idavette.net/hibz06 under the heading "Downstream of the Engine." NO BILLY BOBS HERE
v/r
THE YAV
One problem is C5’s limited transmission and rear axle cooling. This is a function of the car’s front air dam and smooth undercar aerodynamics. M12s get a temperature sensor that turns on a "trans overtemp" light when trans oil gets above 325° F. At that point, as Chevrolet’s press kit says, "...thermal loads become excessive..." and "...the transmission could be damaged if not allowed to cool down." This sensor has been standard on C5 manuals sold in Europe since 1997.
The overtemp light reminds us General Motors is still a big company where executives sometimes make compromises. GM is aware of the high transmission and rear axle temperatures sustained by C5s used in motorsports applications, yet, on the Z06, which by Chief Engineer Dave Hill’s own admission, is marketed to the "extreme performance enthusiast"; we get a temperature warning light. What the M12 needs is either a lubricant better suited to high temperatures, such as a synthetic like Red Line or, better yet, a transmission cooler. Apparently, neither are very attractive for factory use, presumably, because of cost, however, an aftermarket transmission cooler, developed for C5 racing applications, is listed in the 2000 GM Performance Parts Catalog.
:chevy
[Modified by The Yav, 6:18 PM 7/14/2003]
Just changed mine used Mobil 1 snytheic, shifts like butter. Heat is the natural enemy to th MN6 and 12. Below is an article on the Z/06 which address MN6 and MN12 design (transmission mounted in the rear). Article is from http://www.idavette.net/hibz06 under the heading "Downstream of the Engine." NO BILLY BOBS HERE
v/r
THE YAV
One problem is C5’s limited transmission and rear axle cooling. This is a function of the car’s front air dam and smooth undercar aerodynamics. M12s get a temperature sensor that turns on a "trans overtemp" light when trans oil gets above 325° F. At that point, as Chevrolet’s press kit says, "...thermal loads become excessive..." and "...the transmission could be damaged if not allowed to cool down." This sensor has been standard on C5 manuals sold in Europe since 1997.
The overtemp light reminds us General Motors is still a big company where executives sometimes make compromises. GM is aware of the high transmission and rear axle temperatures sustained by C5s used in motorsports applications, yet, on the Z06, which by Chief Engineer Dave Hill’s own admission, is marketed to the "extreme performance enthusiast"; we get a temperature warning light. What the M12 needs is either a lubricant better suited to high temperatures, such as a synthetic like Red Line or, better yet, a transmission cooler. Apparently, neither are very attractive for factory use, presumably, because of cost, however, an aftermarket transmission cooler, developed for C5 racing applications, is listed in the 2000 GM Performance Parts Catalog.
:chevy
[Modified by The Yav, 6:18 PM 7/14/2003]










