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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 03:41 PM
  #1  
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Default Crank bolt

Is a new one required when doing a camshaft swap.
Do dealers have them?

Thanks
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 03:47 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Mehfoud)

Yes and yes. It's a torque-to-yield spec. so a new one is required when you pull the old one.

FYI, ARP sells a reusable version.


[Modified by Patches, 3:49 PM 7/16/2003]
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 04:30 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Patches)

Thanks,

I just realized my cam gasket kit comes with a new one (it is scheduled to arrive tomorrow) :smash:
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 05:17 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Mehfoud)

Get ready to grunt and strain. :rofl:

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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 05:20 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Patches)

Make sure you follow the instructions. You'll need a reeeaaaalllllyyyy long pull handle. Also, use red loctite!!!!!

Dave
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 10:47 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Patches)

Yes and yes. It's a torque-to-yield spec. so a new one is required when you pull the old one.

FYI, ARP sells a reusable version.

Does ARP supply torque specs as well? Has anybody had an ARP bolt back out like the stock ones do?
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 08:40 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (Eric Fischer)

I would suspect the torque-angle is the same, but the bolt is made of a material that is below its' yield point at that spec. I think you still need to use a threadlock and the proper spec to keep if from backing out. Also, make sure you let the lock-tite set before running the engine. Trust me on this one!
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 09:03 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (davidfarmer)

:iagree: totally with David. ARP supplies torque specs for all their hardware on their website or you can call them. The GM bolt comes with pre-applied loctite just like some of their other hw.

I would apply loctite to ARP's as well. Just like their other hw, the crank bolt is stronger than the stocker so it never reaches the yield point - it remains in the elastic range and returns to original length when removed so it can be reused many times.

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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 09:18 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (davidfarmer)

I think you still need to use a threadlock and the proper spec to keep if from backing out. Also, make sure you let the lock-tite set before running the engine. Trust me on this one!
Mine backed out once......follow the instructions to the letter
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 10:14 PM
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Default Re: Crank bolt (SpinMonster)

When reinstalling the balancer, use the old bolt, tighten to 330 N.m (this sets the balancer on the crank), remove old bolt, install new bolt and tighten to 50 N.m then an angle of 140 degrees. Usually a special tool is required.
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