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I would suspect the torque-angle is the same, but the bolt is made of a material that is below its' yield point at that spec. I think you still need to use a threadlock and the proper spec to keep if from backing out. Also, make sure you let the lock-tite set before running the engine. Trust me on this one!
:iagree: totally with David. ARP supplies torque specs for all their hardware on their website or you can call them. The GM bolt comes with pre-applied loctite just like some of their other hw.
I would apply loctite to ARP's as well. Just like their other hw, the crank bolt is stronger than the stocker so it never reaches the yield point - it remains in the elastic range and returns to original length when removed so it can be reused many times.
I think you still need to use a threadlock and the proper spec to keep if from backing out. Also, make sure you let the lock-tite set before running the engine. Trust me on this one!
Mine backed out once......follow the instructions to the letter
When reinstalling the balancer, use the old bolt, tighten to 330 N.m (this sets the balancer on the crank), remove old bolt, install new bolt and tighten to 50 N.m then an angle of 140 degrees. Usually a special tool is required.