T84 Headlamp Install
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,882
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
T84 Headlamp Install
Does anyone have tips/procedures for the T84 (Export) headlamp installation? I have a shop manual, but I was hoping for something more 'layman' than that.
Thanks!
Pete
Thanks!
Pete
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: T84 Headlamp Install (pmarone)
Steve Levine put together a killer web page for the Euro install. :cheers:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/ste...all__ver3.html
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/ste...all__ver3.html
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 2
Re: T84 Headlamp Install (Patches)
I like mine better :jester
Euro Headlamps:
I recommend going to http://www.shanehairston.com/c5_headlight.htm to bone up on the whole procedure-what and where things will be, and how to perform the operation.
Your weapons of choice are simple:
Phillips head, Torx 15 driver, a small 10mm wrench, thin needle nose pliers, a flexible 2.5 foot twig with a slight “golf club like” bend (I’ll tell you why later), and a soft cotton pillow case to drape around the headlight to prevent striking your paint. This is paramount, as it prevents scratches by the wrench and the head light as they both repeatedly strike out in anger at you and your car). Don’t bother with ratchets. I’ll say it again for the cheap seats: Don’t bother with ratchets. You are dealing with very tight tolerances, and it will take time and patience.
As always, before starting anything mechanical on a Corvette, please-PLEASE-remove all women, children, and small animals from the area. You will thank me later. Also warn your neighbors that despite what they will hear all is well, don’t worry about the smoke-and please don’t call the cops. Plus, start early-you will need all the daylight you can get your hands on.
Prepare yourself. Curse loudly for at least a 10 second burst to warm up and avoid a sprain. While doing anything with the headlight hex screws be prepared for them to fall out and drop into the nosecone when you least expect it. Remember when this occurs to curse loudly, breathe, curse more. Don’t forget to breathe!
The only way to safely remove and insert the hex screw in their little slot w/o dropping them is with the needle nose pliers. Your big fat ham hands will do you no good here. Noodle it in and use your fingernails to pull it through (so much for that $50 manicure Sally!) If it falls, sometimes the pillowcase will catch it. But, just like column lock-it to will fail you, and Grasshopper-you will find a new Zen in cursing as you try to fish the little freaks out.
This is where the stick comes in. Root around the nose with the stick (not your nose), trying to flick it out from under the front brake cooling duct, where it is probably hiding. Curse maniacally, and invoke demons whenever possible. If you are a tortured man, you too can lose the final hex screw after you’ve managed to attach the other two securely enough to hold the EHL in place. Learn to love and accept Jesus as you discover there is no way your hand-or anything short of a tentacle-can reach down into the nose to find and pick up the recalcitrant hex screws while the EHL is in place. Pee your pants and drool for a few minutes while you walk the razors edge as to whether you remove the whole EHL assembly, get the hex screw, and start over-or remove the whole blasted bumper (which I’m sure is easier). Hmm…
Face it, you will be unable to reach it with human hands. After spending several moments swishing the hex screws around the driver side nostril with my golf twig, I found a small hole in the noses under pan, relocated the screw pointy side down, and blissfully wrenched it through to freedom.
Pee and drool more-you owe it to yourself…you’re a genius!!!
It would seem the EHL was never designed to be attached to the pop up assembly while it is still in the car. The hex screws are designed to cut into the soft plastic of the EHL and make it’s own trail with the help of a smaller drilled out channel. It would be fine if you could apply a bit more pressure to the hex screw head, or had more wrench turning room to get the screw to bite, or a third hand to support the free floating EHL.
I found that by “pre-screwing” (stop laughing) with the wrench and screw outside the car, you, the hex screws, and your EHL have better chances of surviving this ordeal. Try and get at least one secured on each side so you will no longer have to support it (just like with children). Be cautious with the plastic EHL, if the bolts deviates too much it can crack the assembly-and then my friend you are truly f@#ked.
I found out tonight that these lights are a good deal brighter and whiter. I didn’t find a stretch of road without lighting to really see how well they worked-plus, they may need to be realigned. Also, after you learn what not to do on the first EHL, the second is a lot easier. There is so much room for improvement here, I can safely recommend this mod.
Next project: How to get drool and urine off your clothes with ZAINO!
Euro Headlamps:
I recommend going to http://www.shanehairston.com/c5_headlight.htm to bone up on the whole procedure-what and where things will be, and how to perform the operation.
Your weapons of choice are simple:
Phillips head, Torx 15 driver, a small 10mm wrench, thin needle nose pliers, a flexible 2.5 foot twig with a slight “golf club like” bend (I’ll tell you why later), and a soft cotton pillow case to drape around the headlight to prevent striking your paint. This is paramount, as it prevents scratches by the wrench and the head light as they both repeatedly strike out in anger at you and your car). Don’t bother with ratchets. I’ll say it again for the cheap seats: Don’t bother with ratchets. You are dealing with very tight tolerances, and it will take time and patience.
As always, before starting anything mechanical on a Corvette, please-PLEASE-remove all women, children, and small animals from the area. You will thank me later. Also warn your neighbors that despite what they will hear all is well, don’t worry about the smoke-and please don’t call the cops. Plus, start early-you will need all the daylight you can get your hands on.
Prepare yourself. Curse loudly for at least a 10 second burst to warm up and avoid a sprain. While doing anything with the headlight hex screws be prepared for them to fall out and drop into the nosecone when you least expect it. Remember when this occurs to curse loudly, breathe, curse more. Don’t forget to breathe!
The only way to safely remove and insert the hex screw in their little slot w/o dropping them is with the needle nose pliers. Your big fat ham hands will do you no good here. Noodle it in and use your fingernails to pull it through (so much for that $50 manicure Sally!) If it falls, sometimes the pillowcase will catch it. But, just like column lock-it to will fail you, and Grasshopper-you will find a new Zen in cursing as you try to fish the little freaks out.
This is where the stick comes in. Root around the nose with the stick (not your nose), trying to flick it out from under the front brake cooling duct, where it is probably hiding. Curse maniacally, and invoke demons whenever possible. If you are a tortured man, you too can lose the final hex screw after you’ve managed to attach the other two securely enough to hold the EHL in place. Learn to love and accept Jesus as you discover there is no way your hand-or anything short of a tentacle-can reach down into the nose to find and pick up the recalcitrant hex screws while the EHL is in place. Pee your pants and drool for a few minutes while you walk the razors edge as to whether you remove the whole EHL assembly, get the hex screw, and start over-or remove the whole blasted bumper (which I’m sure is easier). Hmm…
Face it, you will be unable to reach it with human hands. After spending several moments swishing the hex screws around the driver side nostril with my golf twig, I found a small hole in the noses under pan, relocated the screw pointy side down, and blissfully wrenched it through to freedom.
Pee and drool more-you owe it to yourself…you’re a genius!!!
It would seem the EHL was never designed to be attached to the pop up assembly while it is still in the car. The hex screws are designed to cut into the soft plastic of the EHL and make it’s own trail with the help of a smaller drilled out channel. It would be fine if you could apply a bit more pressure to the hex screw head, or had more wrench turning room to get the screw to bite, or a third hand to support the free floating EHL.
I found that by “pre-screwing” (stop laughing) with the wrench and screw outside the car, you, the hex screws, and your EHL have better chances of surviving this ordeal. Try and get at least one secured on each side so you will no longer have to support it (just like with children). Be cautious with the plastic EHL, if the bolts deviates too much it can crack the assembly-and then my friend you are truly f@#ked.
I found out tonight that these lights are a good deal brighter and whiter. I didn’t find a stretch of road without lighting to really see how well they worked-plus, they may need to be realigned. Also, after you learn what not to do on the first EHL, the second is a lot easier. There is so much room for improvement here, I can safely recommend this mod.
Next project: How to get drool and urine off your clothes with ZAINO!
