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I am in the middle of a H/C install and everything was going perfect until I re-installed the balancer. After installing the A/C belt, I noticed it was slightly misaligned. Due to this, I pulled it all apart again to verify I did everything right.
When I was re-installing the crank gear, I hand thread the crank bolt about three to four threads by hand, and as soon as I went to turn it with a wrench the bolt let loose. I think it is just the first few threads that may be stripped, so I am going to try some much longer bolts tomorrow to avoid stripping any more of the threads.
My questions are: If it turns out a lot more threads are damaged, what are my options? I hear the whole crank is threaded, is this true? If so, who makes a longer crank bolt? If this won't work, would rethreading it using a tap and die work? What size should I go to and where can I get a crank bolt to fit it?
I guess if none of this works out, I would have a good excuse for a stroker.
I personally always use a longer crank bolt for just this reason, at least when installing a stock crank pulley. The aftermarket pullies seem to be easier to get on anyway so the stock bolt is usually fine.
I think you'll be fine as long as you only messed up the first few threads. Finding a tap that big will be quite a challenge though.
That bolt is a one time use thing... buy a new one and try that first...
vetterdstr :cheers:
So how many friggen bolts on the motor are Torque To Yield? So far I count Head bolts, Crank bolt, Main bolts. Anything else? Why have TTY bolts become so widely used, and why do hiper motors use non-TTY ARP bolts?
I think Mac or Snap on, Matco, whatever sells a great tool fot stripped threads that goes in and then expands while you back it out cutting new threads to the original design. I wish I had one when I buggered my crank trying to pull my balancer off way back when. (puller slipped into the nose of the crank, very ugly)
Re: I may have stripped the crank (Michael Joslyn)
Crank Bolts are appoximately $6.00. Buy 2 of them. Run one of them all the way in and out to clean up the threads, and then put the new one in. Take you 10 mins and $12.00. :thumbs:
Thanks for the help guys, I was able to get the pulley seated properly using longer bolts and washer combinations, making sure I had plenty of threads in the crank. It appears that only the first few threads ended up slightly stripped.
The crank does not appear to be threaded all the way through for those that are wondering. I put a wood skewer in the crank, and it stopped just past the length of the stock bolt.
I am definately relieved, I was expecting the worst, but all appears to be ok now. Can't wait to get her running.