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I like to change my own oil at home. However, the low profile of the C-5 requires the car to to be jacked up. Is the following procedure acceptable:
1. Slightly open both doors
2. Along the outside frame on both sides there is a spot just behind the front wheels that appears to be a jack point (square cutout with a hole). Place a floor jack on this point and lift high enough on one side to put jack stands under the lift point described in the owners manual. This would be the lift point on the same side of the car as the floor jack.
3. Lower the car onto the jack stand.
4. On the opposite side, find the other jack point along the outside frame and lift at this point until a jack stand will fit under the other lift point described in the owner's manual.
5. Lower the car onto this other jack.
6. Reverse process to lower the car.
Most of us drive the car up onto something ie: 2x4's or something that will get the car about 2" off the ground. Then with a floor jack get underneath the front end and jack the car up from the cross member then put jack stands on either side of the jack. Then go to the rear and do the same. Someone will probably chime in with a link to full instructions or you could do a search on the subject.
Many of us drive the front end up onto Rhino ramps and then use a low profile jack to lift the back end to effectively drain all the oil. That works quite well. Ifyou don't have a low profile jack, driving the rear wheels onto 1" or 2" of wood while going onto the ramps with the front end gives you plenty of room for a jack in the rear. There are pictures around here somewhere of where to lift with a jack on the crossmembers front or rear.
I purchase one of those rectangular flat plastic oil drain pans which can contain 8 or 9 qts and fit under the car.
I use a floor jack to raise the car at the left front jacking point only and leave the floor jack under the car. For safety I put 1 jackstand under the front frame member.
Then I remove the drain plug followed by the oil filter and put the car back on its wheels. While the oil is dripping , I put the floor jack under the rear cross member and raise it about 5" or so.
When all oil is out , jack up again , install oil drain plug , new (primed) oil filter , fill oil and your done.
Takes about 45 minutes. Easy.
I tried the Rhino ramp method as well but the ramps crush the front air dam every time.
I don't know why you guys bother raising the rear, when it would be better if you just took one fresh quart of oil and poured it into the engine with the drain plug still off. This would then flush out the 1/2qt of oil which is trapped in the bottom of the pan due to the angling of the car.
I don't know why you guys bother raising the rear, when it would be better if you just took one fresh quart of oil and poured it into the engine with the drain plug still off. This would then flush out the 1/2qt of oil which is trapped in the bottom of the pan due to the angling of the car.
For me I would rather get the car on the right angle. I believe "flush" is a little strong. More like "mix". Also why waste the oil when it only takes a couple of more minutes to really drain the car completely.
For me I would rather get the car on the right angle. I believe "flush" is a little strong. More like "mix". Also why waste the oil when it only takes a couple of more minutes to really drain the car completely.
I guess I look at it a different way. It's a lot of extra hassle to jack up the rear, plus there is more of a possibility of damaging the car or having it fall on you during the process.
Pouring one fresh quart of oil through there should definitely help to push out the old oil and it only costs $4 anyways. Besides, most of you change your oil too often anyways, so even if you did leave that half quart of "dirty oil" in the bottom of the pan, it would not harm a thing. Especially since it's 1/2 quart out of 6.5 to 7 quarts. (this is another reason the 3k oil change is overkill, since larger oil capacities can handle longer drains-which is why many European cars have no problems whatsoever with 10-15k oil change intervals when they hold 8 quarts of oil or more in some cases)
Many of us drive the front end up onto Rhino ramps and then use a low profile jack to lift the back end to effectively drain all the oil. That works quite well. Ifyou don't have a low profile jack, driving the rear wheels onto 1" or 2" of wood while going onto the ramps with the front end gives you plenty of room for a jack in the rear. There are pictures around here somewhere of where to lift with a jack on the crossmembers front or rear.
This is how I do it but I would caution against trying to drive on the piece of wood while going up the ramps. The first time I changed oil I used the Rhino Ramps and tried to drive on a 2x12 to lift the back up enough for the jack---and when I gave the car some gas, the wood went flying out from under the tire and almost hit a car in the driveway. It went flying about ten feet!!! I now use that little jack by C5Frederik to lift it slightly on the side of the car. I have the frame savers from Andy so I don't have to worry about using pucks, etc. to lift from the side.
For me I would rather get the car on the right angle. I believe "flush" is a little strong. More like "mix". Also why waste the oil when it only takes a couple of more minutes to really drain the car completely.
Exactly ! Also gives time to inspect underneath the car . These are 40k cars, no need to cheat on the oil changes . An oil change does not have to be like a pit stop with these cars. Take time to drain it all out and give the Corvette the attention it deserves .
I just take mine to Victory Lane Quick Oil CHange. $59 and I can watch them do everything as the hood is open away from me.
Plus I have them check for transmission leaks etc...everything except the air pressure in the tires and my Blackwing air filter.
I understand many want to "do it themselves" but I dunno I have better things to do on a Saturday (like drive my Vette) than taking a couple hours to change oil.
I just take mine to Victory Lane Quick Oil CHange. $59 and I can watch them do everything as the hood is open away from me.
Plus I have them check for transmission leaks etc...everything except the air pressure in the tires and my Blackwing air filter.
I understand many want to "do it themselves" but I dunno I have better things to do on a Saturday (like drive my Vette) than taking a couple hours to change oil.
Just my .03 (inflation). :flag
A couple of hours :confused:
How about it takes as long as you want to drain the oil plus 5 minutes to jack up the back. 1/2 hour or so. And costs about $30.00 with a K&N filter.
I found some ramps at Pep Boys (and Wal Mart has them) that have extensions for just a few dollars. The extensions eliminate the dragging of the air dam on the ramps. The ramps are metal, very solid, and wide enough. I also jack the rear end, but I am going to try the next change without jacking to see how much is drained.
Agree 100% w/ Patman. I don't need hassle of jacking up rear end to get 1/2 qt. of oil that is hardly dirty anyway. Just flush (delute, etc.) the 1/2 qt. left in oil pan w/ a qt. of new oil and forget it. Most of us (myself included) change our oil too frequently (OVERKILL) anyway. :yesnod:
Dude that's uncalled for. :( Just because I don't own one doesn't mean I don't know anything about them. For one, I owned a 98 LS1 Firebird and have been on LS1.com since day one, and am still a moderator on there. I'm also a moderator on LS1Tech.com too. So if you're implying that just because I don't own a Corvette, that I can't have an opinion on it, then you're sadly mistaken.
I have some two by eight tapered boards to get the front high enough to install a new filter. Changing my oil is not a cost issue but a clean car issue. My first oil change was free and maybe that is why it came back to me with oil all over the place. It took me more time to clean it up that it would have been to change it myself.
I had oil on my fenders! :reddevil Can you believe that?