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My street driven '98 C5 has the original pads and rotors and I think I have a common problem occurring-warped rotors. Should I try using the GM drilled rotors $111 ea and ceramic pads $98 set or go with something else like specialty drilled and slotted, slotted only, cryogen frozen, kevlar pads, too many choices and opinions. What has worked for you, prices and source?
Your rotor and pad choice are determined by your usage. Are you just street driving? Drag racing? AutoX? Road racing? Multiple usage?
I use my 99 as a daily driver and road racer. My brake set up is cryo-treated slotted rotors and hawk pads (HP+ compound, p/n: Front HB247N.575, Rear HB248N.650). This setup works faily well as a dual purpose compromise use. The HP+ have good cold stopping power and tolerate track temps well. However, they do produce a good quantity of dust. Not a good choice for a show car.
FYI, often warped rotors are mis-diagnosed. In the majority of the cases, it's pad material tranfser to the rotor surface. This gives the driver the same feedback as warped rotors because the surface is no longer uniform. You may not see the material. It may even take on a shine and look like the rotor. Since it only takes a few thousandths of an inch on material to cause pedal sensation, you probably will not feel it with your hands. A run-out test will show run-out which is the same result as a warped rotor. Generally speaking, a rotor with pad material on it is about as useful as a warped one, time to buy new ones.
My street driven '98 C5 has the original pads and rotors and I think I have a common problem occurring-warped rotors. Should I try using the GM drilled rotors $111 ea and ceramic pads $98 set or go with something else like specialty drilled and slotted, slotted only, cryogen frozen, kevlar pads
NO
The stock rotors and pads are excellent for street use. :cool:
In 6 years of heavy use I never had a warped rotor on my 97. The stock rotors are just as good as the aftermarket high priced items.
Did somebody just do some work on your car? Just the act of removing and reinstalling the wheels can cause brake thumping if the wheels were not seated correctly on reinstallation. Lug nut torque is important but not as important as making sure the rotors are in their proper place before snugging every thing down.