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Dropped my car off this a.m because voltage was anywhere from 11V to 15.5V. Sounded like a wonky alternator, turns out the starter was damaged when I had my headers installed. The shop that installed the headers is flipping the bill and all should be fixed on Thursday. I'm glad he is looking after his boo-boo, no questions asked, and the dealer is doing the repair.
I hate not having my car in my garage though! :cry
Ya, I guess they are picking up the car now and trailering it back to their shop. (They are 1 1/2 hrs away.) They need to remove the headers just to replace the starter.
The following rant is my opinion, and is not to be taken as anything else. I hope your car gets fixed properly, without further expense to you.
They need to remove the headers just to replace the starter.
This kind of thing would not be tolerated on a factory built car.
It seems to me that the aftermarket is in persuit only of RWHP numbers and do not take the entire problem into consideration when designing these parts.
To me tube headers and their associated problems are a strip only item. To have to remove the headers to get to a part like a starter is ridicules.
The more I hear of problems with C5 headers the more I'm convinced to stay with the factory manifolds. :rant:
The following rant is my opinion, and is not to be taken as anything else. I hope your car gets fixed properly, without further expense to you.
They need to remove the headers just to replace the starter.
This kind of thing would not be tolerated on a factory built car.
It seems to me that the aftermarket is in persuit only of RWHP numbers and do not take the entire problem into consideration when designing these parts.
To me tube headers and their associated problems are a strip only item. To have to remove the headers to get to a part like a starter is ridicules.
The more I hear of problems with C5 headers the more I'm convinced to stay with the factory manifolds. :rant:
True, however, it is the same as custom painting a car in pursuit of making it your own and personalizing it...as soon as someone dings the body, a paint repair is far less simple. :smash:
If the Headers are that close to the starter, that you have to remove one to get the starter out. You might want to add a Heat shield to the starter just incase!
Just a thought!
Tim
PS
Cudo's to the Header shop for standing up and taking responsibility for the work.
If the Headers are that close to the starter, that you have to remove one to get the starter out. You might want to add a Heat shield to the starter just incase!
Just a thought!
Tim
PS
Cudo's to the Header shop for standing up and taking responsibility for the work.
Get some header wrap.. I went through 2 starters before realizing the headers were the issue.
Re: DEALER FOUND MY VOLTAGE PROBLEM. (mdhmi@yahoo.com)
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$1,000 - $1,800 for a performance part that adds a 10-12 rwhp. Sounds like a drastically overpriced headache for a street car. JMHO.
Mark
Yep.
Its really not so much the expense of the parts, as it is the power gains. It is not worth the headaches and bother caused by tube headers for the 20hp.
I took long tubes off of my 69 Camaro because of ground clearance issues (I lowered the car) and installed shorties. The car ran better with the shorties, because they matched my cam better.
Most of the long tubes for C5s are 1 3/4, too big for a 350cid street engine, esp with the cam limitations imposed by the computer. Tube headers make huge power gains on engines with cams with alot of overlap, due to the negative pressure wave. With an EFI street engine, all you need is the lowest back pressure possible to get maximum benifit.
It all depends on where the power is. If you only gained it at the peak of the curve I would agree. When your power changes thru the entire curve it's a far more responsive car. :steering:
I'm not arguing that long tubes don't make more power, a properly sized set, with the right diameter tube is going to allow the engine to make the most HP.
I am just not willing to trade the bothers imposed by headers for the power.
I think what bothers me is that the there are no discussions on combos that don't involve 230 degree cams and tube headers. If GM can get 405 HP with manifolds, with an engine your grandmother can drive, then why can't I get 425 with a little more shake at idle?
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