I have this in the Scan section but it isn't getting any exposure.

Here's the scoop:
I am converting my 2001 A4 to a MN6. I love my A4 but I don't think I am getting the FULL benefit of this AWESOME 436ci stroker with my A4 (plus I need something to mod :D ) I want to gather as much info as possible before the project and I believe the tuning will be the biggest issue since my VIN and PCM is for an A4.

Anyone know if there is a trick to getting my A4 PCM to become a MN6? Agostino Racing Engines (ARE) will be doing the tuning so they have the unlimited version of LS1Edit, however they have not done this sort of tuning before. I want to gather as much info as possible about this part of the project.

Any tricks or special procedures that need to be done for my car to become a MN6? Thanks.

Keith

 

There was a guy who converted a 01 WS6 to an M6 awhile back, there are multiple differences in the wiring between the cars. I'd find a wrecked M6 car and snag everything.

 

I have all the parts already...............I'm just wondering if there are any tricks for when the tuning comes up. :) I want to be totally preoared for this.

 

Buck, I posted this in another thread this morning but may as well post it here since this thread will probably have high visibility. This member might be able to help you out.

>>>The following was recently posted by brrymnvette. He didn't list part numbers but I'm sure it'd be easy to track those down knowing exactly what is you need for the project.

ALOT of you guys have been asking questions about converting from an auto to a stick so I will try to clear some things up and help as much as I can.
First, It is not that hard, just time consuming. I did the conversion in a weekend with my father at his shop. HE has been a mechanic for over 30 years. He and I had NEVER touched a c5 before we started this project. Nobody had touched my car besides me, noone ever will either. ANyway I had wanted a six speed form the get go but they are harder to come by here. So, I did the obvious, buy an auto and make it a stick.
I pieced my "kit" together off of ebay and from "karshop" (stand up awesome guy!). My total cost was around $1500. Remember I did this myself.
Prices: Trans $500...ebay (from karshop, how I met him)
Tourque tube $250...ebay
Bellhouing $75...Gene
Wiring harness$100..Gene
Flywheel $50...Gene
Shifter $10...Gene
Shifter Boot $25...Gene
Shifter rod $20...ebay
Shifter box $50.Vette2Vette
PCM reflash $150 don't recomend it buy a pcm
Clutch pedal $35 ...Gene
w/hydraluics
Used clutch FREE from Gene to make sure it was set up right.
TOTAL $1265
STEPS IN THE CONVERSION not scientifically proven
1. disconnect battery and take out shifter
2.raise the car and say what am I doing?
3.Take off wheels
4.Disconnect all the wiring plugs going to the wheels i.e. traction control, abs, handling. I think there is 3 at each wheel
Forgot this step. Undo the leaf spring. Put a jack up against it so it doesn't have pressure trying to hold the car up and undo the bolts at each end.
5.Pop out the lower ball joints, so the axles can come out
6.Take the nuts off the end of the axles so you can take it out
7.Pop out axles. You probably have to put a screwdriver in between the rear and axle to get it to pop out of the rear.
8.Make sure that everything that looks like it cant go down 1ft, is disconnected.
9. Disconnect trans wiring and all other wiring that looks like it needs to be
10.Loosen up the 4 nuts that hold the cradle (rear suspension) to the car.
11. Check again for wires
12. Put a trans jack or something under the rear suspension
13. Undo th e4 nuts and SLOWLY lower the cradle
14. Lower it about a foot and go un bolt the torque tube from the bellhousing.
15.Gently work the assembly from the bellhousing.
IF YOU LOWER THE TRANS AND TORQUE TUBE PAST 15 DEGREES BRFORE YOU PULL IT FROM THE BELLHOUSING YOU COULD BEND/BREAKE THINGS
16. After you have it pulled from the car set it on the ground and pull the trans, tube, cradle, and rearend apart.
17. Take off belhousing and flywheel
18.Take out trans lines and block the radiator
19.Take out the trans wiring harness. It goes all the way up to the front wheels and to the 4 big connections under the battery.
20. NOw you should have all the automatic stuff out.
21. Put in your new wiring harness, MAke sure it has active handling if you have it or is standard if yo have standard suspension.
22. put in new flwwheel, clutch and bellhousing
23. put your new torque tube and trans in. Make sure you have the sifter rod already on the trans. It is easier to put the trans and tube in already together
24. You may fight with it awhile, I did for 45 min.
25. Pull th eplate off the rearend that says auto (I think) It just pops out. You should be able to see into the rearend.
26. bolt your rearend to the trans
27. bolt up your rear suspension to the body. The four big nuts
28. Put your rear suspension back together with wheels.
29. Recheck to make sure brake lines and everything else is connected and away from heat.
30. lower car
31. Take the bottom of the dash apart so you can get in and do some work. I found it easier to take out the seat.
32. Pull back the black stuff from the firewall and you will see the template where you are supposed to put the hole for the clutch pedal.
33. Use a holesaw to drill you hole. Takes % seconds with a holesaw.
34. PUt your clutch pedal in . THe top bolt and nut you kinda have to do blindly. You have to go in on the one side at the other end of the drivers compartment at the end of the black plastic.
35. Mount your clutch master and connect it to the torque tube. P.I.T.A.
36. You have to run a wire from the big yellow wire on the back of the ignition switch to one side of the clutch pedal.
37. Th eother wire comes form a relay next to the bcm on the passanger footwell. OPen it up th efootwell and there will be a relay with 4 wire 2 will be purple. One of the purple wires has to go to the other side of the clutch pedal. This is your neutral saftey switch.
38. Some other minor wiring has to be done for the cruise, skip shift and reverse lockout. But they are year specific. I can provide wiring diagrams and instructions on that also. It is easy.
39. Put in your new PCM
40.recheck everything
41. Check again
42. One more time.
GO HAVE SOME FUN
I am sure I forgot some steps, if I remember or if anyone else has some input on how they did theirs chime in . I know others have done this and we have helped each other I just don't want to put their name out and have them bombarded with questions. Feel free to email me with questions. I can do this on yur car if you want me to and I WON'T charge the shop labor rates.Later, Andy B, SNK-ETR (plate)<<<

HTH :cheers:

 

Patches

Thanks. That was an awesome post and actually used it to buy all my parts. It is a great guide.

I bought all the parts, but I'm wondering if anyone knows what tricks or procedures need to be done once the PCM tuning needs to be done. Since my VIN and PCM is programmed for my A4.....I'm wondering what needs to be done so my PCM (and VIN) can be entered for a MN6 program.

 

Yeah, wish I had more info. It's a fascinating project as I have a buddy with an A4 who's yearned for the MN6 and thought no way could it be done. Anyway, could you post any info that adds to this as you progress further? I'd love to see how the PCM can be converted over and if can be done strictly using LS1 Edit. We have our own license so that would be trick.

:cheers:

 

I will definitely keep ya posted. It will probably be a couple more months at least until I do it but as it progresses I will update the Forum. :)