Working on Heads
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From: Frisco TX
Working on Heads
I am fixing to work on my engine for the first time. I had trouble with my car the other weekend and when I took it into the shop they said that I have a bent valve and needed to replace all the valves and push rods. They were going to charge $2600 for parts and labor. I figured I could just buy the parts myself and try to fix it. I am fixing to get the parts so I am hoping to start on it this weekend. I am going to use the instructions on http://www.ls1howto.com for replacing heads and cams to do the work. I was wondering though is there anything tricky for me to watch out for? or is there anything really important that is not mentioned or needs to be stressed?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: NH
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
-Is it just one bent valve?. I'm confused as to why you would need to replace all the valves and all the pushrods if you have just one bent valve. or maybe they are just blowing smoke up your @ss.
-do you have a new set of heads, or are you looking to just replace the valves/pushrods?
If you have a new set of assembled heads it should be pretty straight forward. if you are looking to just replace the valves, its not as easy as just buying some valves and throwing them in the head. you'll have to do a valve job, and definitely make sure there is no severe damage to the valve seats first. but i would think you could pull the heads, take them to a reputable machine shop. have them fix whatever is busted, and slap them back on yourself with new pushrods... and still do it for cheaper than $2600. heck, for $2k you could just go buy some sweet aftermarket heads and plop them on, and make some more HP while you're at it ;-)
-do you have a new set of heads, or are you looking to just replace the valves/pushrods?
If you have a new set of assembled heads it should be pretty straight forward. if you are looking to just replace the valves, its not as easy as just buying some valves and throwing them in the head. you'll have to do a valve job, and definitely make sure there is no severe damage to the valve seats first. but i would think you could pull the heads, take them to a reputable machine shop. have them fix whatever is busted, and slap them back on yourself with new pushrods... and still do it for cheaper than $2600. heck, for $2k you could just go buy some sweet aftermarket heads and plop them on, and make some more HP while you're at it ;-)
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (Soon-2B-FRC)
Well the shop said I just had one bent valve but that all of them were weak. So they said all of them should be replaced. I did purchase assembled heads off of ebay. They came with the valves, valve spings, etc... And then I also purchased new pushrods.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 168
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From: Castaic CA
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
Sounds like someone was trying to take advantage of you if you ask me....I can usually tell when valves look "weak"!! (NOT!!!!). I would get a second opinion and make sure you even have a problem with one valve at this point. If you do get that far into the engine, you should consider a cam swap, although that would constitute some extra work....
Good luck,
Tony M.
Good luck,
Tony M.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
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From: SoCal
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
Hey there, tons of people have used my site (www.ls1howto.com) for the head swap and have had no issues so I think as long as you follow the instructions, you will be good to go. Just make sure you get the new gaskets and bolts.
The only incomplete part I can think of right now is if you have an A4 transmission, stuff will be just a tad different (the tranny dipstick may be bolted to the back of the psg side head, at least it is on the f-body A4's).
Good luck with the install! You can post here, or ls1tech.com or email me if you have any problems.
Jon
http://www.ls1howto.com
The only incomplete part I can think of right now is if you have an A4 transmission, stuff will be just a tad different (the tranny dipstick may be bolted to the back of the psg side head, at least it is on the f-body A4's).
Good luck with the install! You can post here, or ls1tech.com or email me if you have any problems.
Jon
http://www.ls1howto.com
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (jmX)
Thanks! I have read your site and it looks great. I bought my heads of ebay. They are already assembled with the valves, valve springs, etc. Is there anything I can do to make sure they are in spec? Or is there any type of adjustments I might need to make on them?
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,607
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From: San Francisco CA
Re: Working on Heads (jmX)
The only incomplete part I can think of right now is if you have an A4 transmission, stuff will be just a tad different (the tranny dipstick may be bolted to the back of the psg side head, at least it is on the f-body A4's).
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
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From: SoCal
Re: Working on Heads (SFVetteman)
ukneeq, the heads should be fine. If you wanted to be extra safe, I'd probably put new valve springs on them while the heads are off, but if you are just going with stock valve springs then there's probably no need to worry about that. Its a good time to throw on some hi performance springs tho, it'll make a cam change later that much easier :)
SFVetteman, I guess I should have realized that considering the tranny is in the back on a C5! DUH :conehead Spent all last weekend working on an A4 F-body so I was in F-body mode. :eek:
SFVetteman, I guess I should have realized that considering the tranny is in the back on a C5! DUH :conehead Spent all last weekend working on an A4 F-body so I was in F-body mode. :eek:
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (jmX)
OK...I should have examined the heads I got in better detail when I got them. But now I have a delimea (sp?). One of the push rods holes looks like someone messed with it. Here are the links to pics: http://www.ukneeq.com/~fedil/images/DSCN0469.jpg http://www.ukneeq.com/~fedil/images/DSCN0470.jpg
I am not sure if this will even matter. But I wanted to check. It looks like all the other parts will keep the push rods straight. But I am not sure and would like the opinion of people with greater knowledge than me.
Thanks!
[Modified by ukneeq, 3:07 AM 10/12/2003]
I am not sure if this will even matter. But I wanted to check. It looks like all the other parts will keep the push rods straight. But I am not sure and would like the opinion of people with greater knowledge than me.
Thanks!
[Modified by ukneeq, 3:07 AM 10/12/2003]
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
Ok...Got off the heads and the I found the follow in one of the valves: http://www.ukneeq.com/~fedil/images/DCSN0473.jpg and http://www.ukneeq.com/~fedil/images/DCSN0477.jpg. Does this look familiar to anyone? Anyone know what they are or where they came from? But the black thing was preventing the valve from closing all the way.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
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From: SoCal
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
The black thing is just a non-essential little clip that slides into the intake manifold on one end, and the other end clips on to the PCV hose.
The silver gasket thing is a coolant pipe gasket..that goes between the cylinder head and the coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold. There should be 4 total, two on each head, one on each end.
The silver gasket thing is a coolant pipe gasket..that goes between the cylinder head and the coolant pipe that runs under the intake manifold. There should be 4 total, two on each head, one on each end.
Supporting Vendor
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From: Loveland CO
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
Those were the instruction that me and lowdowndirty used when we swapped out my heads and cam. It was the first time I ever worked on a motor. It went very smooth and my car runs awesome. Are you going to get performance heads and cam? Kaley
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (jmX)
Ok...not having a good time with my first time working on my engine. Again...my fault for not checking thoroughly. But I now noticed that I have two different heads. One is the old style with the 97-98 style valve cover holes. The other has the center mounted valve cover holes. So I now know I have two different year heads. Will this be a problem? Because I would prefer to go buy another valve cover than take off the head again.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
OK...Well we finally have everything put back in place. To test it we started it and after about 10-15 seconds the alternator pulley became really hot. Is this normal? If not what should I check? We checked to make sure the pulley was moving. I am at a loss.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,818
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From: SoCal
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
I personally wouldnt use 2 different year heads, but I'm sure the car will figure it out since it has an O2 sensor on each bank. That is pretty ghetto though man, who sold you these heads? :cuss
As for the hot alternator pulley, I've never felt how hot mine gets. Why do you know it was hot? Was it smoking or something? As long as its moving and the belt isnt slipping on it, it should be fine.
As for the hot alternator pulley, I've never felt how hot mine gets. Why do you know it was hot? Was it smoking or something? As long as its moving and the belt isnt slipping on it, it should be fine.
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From: Frisco TX
Re: Working on Heads (jmX)
I decided not to use the 2 different heads. We figured it would be best to use the same kind. I bought the heads off ebay. We did found out it was hot because it did smoke and a friend that was helping me thought it was coming from the alternator. But as we watched it more the smoke was coming areas that had power steering fluid and coolant leak on them. But in the process of thinking it was the alternator smoking we felt the alternator. It was still cold but then we could feel the heat from the pulley. It was extremely hot. But we watched the belt and it was on track. Wasn't slipping or anything. The only thing we noticed is that the tension looks tighter because the one you use to give slack to put the belt back on, didn't go back down to the orginal position. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it. But thanks for everyone's help! Would have been able to do this without you guys. But if anyone can think of anything else about this pulley situation, whether it is a non-issue or can think of something wrong, just let me know. I don't want to cause more damage fixing my engine than it orginally had.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,126
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From: Dallas, TX
Re: Working on Heads (ukneeq)
ukneeq,
I have a set of stock heads if you are interested. Let me know. Send me a message. roli_ochoa@yahoo.com They are 853 castings and are center bolt designs. I am in Garland.
:cheers:
I have a set of stock heads if you are interested. Let me know. Send me a message. roli_ochoa@yahoo.com They are 853 castings and are center bolt designs. I am in Garland.
:cheers: