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Can anyone tell how to adjust the emergency brake in my C5? Seems to have to much slack in it. When I pull it up all the way, the brakes are not fully set. Any help would be appreciated. :confused:
The dealer ripped me and charged me $85. They said it was due to normal wear and tear (only had about 20K on the car!). If you get the instructions, please forward to me too.
The ebrake are drum brakes that fit inside the rear disks. The 'normal' way to adjust these is to remove the wheel, the brake capliper, the disk. You'll then see the drum ebrakes which are a single piece with two pads mounted on it. There is a star adjuster that is turned to spread the pads apart. Adjust the star and put the disk back on until it feels about right. Do the same to the other side.
When I did mine I left it a little loose cause I didn't want to burn up any more pad than I had too. Now my ebrake comes up most, but not all of the way, and it holds much better.
This is truly a PITA. I saw a picture on this forum of a guy who drilled access holes in his rear discs so that he could adjust the ebrake with out having to remove anything. Except for the fact I thought it looked ugly, it is a clever idea and probably works well.
I tried a method that was on this forum and it worked..Grab the e.brake handle and pull it up fast 2 or 3 times(quickly). Worked for me.......the only issue to keep it from getting a safety inspection.
If the quick adjust method listed above doesn't work, your ebrake is probably too far out of adjustment to avoid the pita method - namely, taking off the rear wheels / brake rotors and manually adjusting it. Once you get access, the method of old applies. Turn the little star gears to adjust the shoes in or out.
More than likely you will have trouble breaking the big caliper bolts loose. I ended up only adjusting the driver side... I manage to break that side loose by using my hydraulic jack on the wrench. No such luck on the passenger side :(. But even with that, the car actually holds on a hill, which is a big improvement.
BTW, the recommendation (I believe from the manual, but i don't have one) is that once you get the caliper bolts off, you have to replace them with new ones. I just used lock-tite and put my old ones back.
The e-brake handle pump procedure worked fine after about 10-15 guick pulls with the button held in. Two or three quick pulls did not work. More is better in this case!
Try this. It worked great for me when I had no engagement whatsoever. Just pump the brake pedal 2 to 3 times (and hold it down) just before you pull the emergency brake.
The pull the handle up three or four times only takes slack out of the cable.. it doesn not effect the adjustment of the shoes... in any way... doing this more is not better... it only stretches out the cable again.. The Ebrake is designed to "HOLD" the car when stopped, therefore the shoes should never wear... the problem is... few ebrakes are adjusted correctly from the factory. I did mine once 40,000 miles ago, and 4 years ago and my ebrake can stop my car doing 30 miles an hour.. IT should be a one time adjustment..if you do it right, and you dont ride with your ebrake partially engaged,.,,anyone who needs a clearer picture of this.. IM me ...
I found a significant problem - the driver side brake cable was disconnected at the equalizer bracket, so that side could never work. Fixing that is a PITA cause you gotta remove the passenger side muffler to get to the bracket.
Then I just had to adjust them. After all this, they work better than it EVER has since new. I think I got the driver side too tight though, because I have a little brake squeak with the e-brake released when I'm moving.
Guys, I had the same trouble – 99 Vert.
My Chevy dealer told me the back-up-pull the parking brake handle method will work, it doesn’t.
(Like the “old” drum brake cars, back up-slam the brake pedal. This would put some backward torque against the drum assembly and move the star adjusted one click.)
This does NOT work on C5 Corvettes.
You must pull the wheel, caliper and rotor, then you can easily adjust the parking brake “shoe”. Yea, those caliper bolts are TIGHT, and not much room to move the wrench handle under the car.
Took about 1hr for the first side, about 20 min for the other.
I’m in a local club – 125 cars, 75 C5s, after taking a quick poll, maybe 5% of the cars had parking brakes that worked at all. (Of the guys with Automatic Transmissions, most had never even pulled their brake handle; still most didn’t work).
ART
From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: Emergency Brake Adjustment (DJPit)
After doing the PITA adjustment, you can keep it in adjustment by letting the car roll backward, and lifting the parking brake handle 3-4 times. Optimum adjustment is with the handle about half way up when fully engaged.
$85 bucks seems about right as the PITA proceedure takes about 3/4 hour to do both sides and most dealers round up. At that point you might as well spring for some new brake pads as the labor is about the same as there are only two more steps involved.
After doing the PITA adjustment, you can keep it in adjustment by letting the car roll backward, and lifting the parking brake handle 3-4 times. Optimum adjustment is with the handle about half way up when fully engaged.
$85 bucks seems about right as the PITA proceedure takes about 3/4 hour to do both sides and most dealers round up. At that point you might as well spring for some new brake pads as the labor is about the same as there are only two more steps involved.
hy would you need New shoes??? ever.. There is no wear and tear.... the car is stopped when you engage the ebrake... also the bracket bolts are not torque tight.. they are loctite tight... 125 ft lbs is not alot of torque.. It's the red hardening loctite from the factory that is the problem.. a good shock to the bolt will break the loctite free,,, when you reinstall them use the blue stuff..
From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: Emergency Brake Adjustment (Evil-Twin)
Sorry for the misunderstanding. I was referring to the actual brake pads, not the parking brake shoe (as I've only seen one parking brake shoe wear out). My fuzzy logic was that if you were going to pay a mechanic $85 to adjust your parking brake and a new set of rear brake pads go for about $75 and you wouldn't incur any additional labor cost to change them at the same time, it may save you $85 down the road when you need to replace the rear pads assuming the pads on the car were showing 50% or more in wear.
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