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After getting ripped off on an uneccesary door lock actuator at the dealership my door locks still don't work and now they're telling me I need a Left Door Control Module. Is this difficult to do the install? Does anyone have any experience doing this?
I can't imagine taking the door panel off is that complicated and then it's just replacing a part, right?
The door panel is easy. There are two torx screws behind the inside door handle. You need to use a screwdriver to carefully pry off the plastic piece covering them, then just unscrew. Use a panel puller (a screwdriver works too but you risk scratching the paint). It might take a little work because the panel REALLY wants to stick to the door. Once you've pryed all the way around the door panel, simply pull it up carefully and it should come right off.
There are some electronics sort of sitting there inside the door, although I'm not sure if it's the DCM. If it is, then it sounds like something any do-it-yourselfer should be able to replace themselves.
After getting ripped off on an uneccesary door lock actuator at the dealership my door locks still don't work and now they're telling me I need a Left Door Control Module. Is this difficult to do the install? Does anyone have any experience doing this?
I can't imagine taking the door panel off is that complicated and then it's just replacing a part, right?
Thanks in advance... again!
yes it is a piece of cake... Go to http://www.vetteessentials.com/ look for instulation instructions dowm the left side of their home page in red.... find the instructions for grab handle replacement
The DCM is a 26 pin connector module... you just unplug it and there are two screw holding it to the door... here is a picture of the passengers side DCM. the left one is similar.. they list for 244 dollars each...
Good Luck... and you should not pay for the actuator they rarely go bad.. everyone here knows the dcm's are bad... many have been replaced but then we here know more than most dealerships... there is only two wires that control the open and close.. it is very easy to test their output to the actuator... you only need a test light.. apparently your dealership sucks...
Perfect, that's all I need to know. Except, I guess, if I need to disconnect the battery?
I will never take it back to this dealership again, not even for an oil change. Now I know why everyone from SF drives their car 45 min south to Andersen Chevrolet.
I'll be replacing mine tomorrow for reasons explained below; I don't see why the battery need be disconnected since there should be no dc volts anywhere in the door if the ignition is off.
My problem was that I towed my car to VIR two weekends ago for a track event, and when the car came off the trailer, the left door was dead! Couldn't lower the window, which is of course necessary to drive the track. Chris Ingle, a top Corvette T1 racer, kindly showed me how to remove the door panel as explained above, and in my case, the window glass. If anyone finds themselves in this situation, the glass is easily removed by peeling back two sticky rubber pieces about 2" square near the top of the door, and loosening the bolt beneath each of these pieces. The glass then lifts right out. You should tighten the bolts back up before running the car so they don't drop out and rattle around the bottom of the door where you will no doubt never retrieve them again. Cheers - Robert
Perfect, that's all I need to know. Except, I guess, if I need to disconnect the battery?
I will never take it back to this dealership again, not even for an oil change. Now I know why everyone from SF drives their car 45 min south to Andersen Chevrolet.
Question...How do you figure the doors can lock and unlock with the remote and key in your hands? How does the BCM communicate with the DCMs thru the data line between them?
Answer: My main intention was to inform folks about the removal of window glass, if necessary as in my case. Not the relatively simple swap of the DCM.
To answer your question, I would assume that the remote energizes the system, and that otherwise, it is not energized. On the other hand, I suppose that the security system (at least when activated) does maintain a communication circuit with the door. My further assumption is that lacking either of these two conditions, there is probably no DC voltage in the door, and that even if there were, it would not matter very much when swapping such a component.
But I cannot argue with the general principal that when in doubt you should err on the side of disconecting the primary energy source (battery) when servicing electronic components. I won't bother doing this, myself. Regards, Robert
Our DCM's are "Assembled in Mexico". That figures.
Because of my total lack of confidence in Chevy dealers I replaced my DCM myself even though my car's a 2002 still under warranty. The guy in the parts department couldn't understand why anyone would do this. How do you even explain it to them?
It's a very easy replacement. Just take your time removing the door panel as those plastic studs are very easy to break. And yes, I disconnected the battery. Couldn't hurt.