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I purchased a 99 Vette Hardtop with 44,000 miles. It is outstanding and then some except for the emergency brake which does not hold. The previous owner (the first owner) has had it adjusted many times but it will not hold. I took it to my local Chevy dealer and they are telling me that it must be due to driving with the brake on. I doubt this very much because the person I bought the car from did an outstanding job of maintaining the vehicle. He simply would not have done this. Has anyone else had this experience and is there a simple solution? heglerr@cornhuskerl.net 402-798-7244 :confused:
You will need to manually adjust the brake shoes that are located inside the rear rotors. Remove the rear wheels, remove the rear brake caliper and rotor, then adjust the pads by turning the star wheel (just like the old GM shoe type adjustment) It is an easy job and your parking brake will work like a champ. One thing about these cars and parking brakes is... the E-brake goes out of adjustment all by itself every 4 or 5K.. the dealership was :bs you about that... they know it is a problem with our cars. :yesnod:
:iagree: I took the opportunity to prophylactically addess the problem when I installed my Eradispeed rotors with only about 1500 miles on the car. I tightened the ebrake up and it's been excellent ever since. I almost broke my neck the other night when I hit the ebrake as the car was rolling back and snapped violently to a stop when I pulled the handle. :lol:
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Re: Emergency Brake (Robert Hegler)
Mine did the same thing and the dealer finally ended up replacing the e-brake mechanism next to the console (the handle connects to some gears there). The gears were stripped, allowing the handle to move up but not engage. E-brake holds now. It could also be that you need the shoes adjusted on the rear wheels.
You will need to manually adjust the brake shoes that are located inside the rear rotors.
:iagree: Did mine this past weekend after failing inspection. The caliper bolts are on at 160 ft lbs with loctite so you have to lift the car waaayy up to get enough leverage to break those loose. Here is the "tech tip"...
You will need to manually adjust the brake shoes that are located inside the rear rotors.
:iagree: Did mine this past weekend after failing inspection. The caliper bolts are on at 160 ft lbs with loctite so you have to lift the car waaayy up to get enough leverage to break those loose. Here is the "tech tip"...
A slight adjustment to your post cortex.... it isnt the caliper bolts.. it's the caliper bracket bolts... and the torque spec is 125 ft pounds... it isn't the torque thats tough.. it's the red loctite that's hard to break... when you reinstall the caliper bracket bolts, use the blue loctite.
You will need to manually adjust the brake shoes that are located inside the rear rotors.
:iagree: Did mine this past weekend after failing inspection. The caliper bolts are on at 160 ft lbs with loctite so you have to lift the car waaayy up to get enough leverage to break those loose. Here is the "tech tip"...
[Modified by cortex, 7:56 PM 11/6/2003]
A slight adjustment to your post cortex.... it isnt the caliper bolts.. it's the caliper bracket bolts... and the torque spec is 125 ft pounds... it isn't the torque thats tough.. it's the red loctite that's hard to break... when you reinstall the caliper bracket bolts, use the blue loctite.
Right, the bracket bolts. Thanks for the correction. However, it does say 160 ft lbs for those in my factory service manual :confused: