These are 2 examples of a local shops installs... first one is a LT1 engine... but notice anything wrong?


The following is my personal problems ive had with him...
And I was going to post the rest of the pics of the install from my personal problems (LS1 car)

True duals from the shop

Interior/exterior messed up

Went in origionally for:
Differential upgrade and swap to 3.73s
Cam install and valvetrain
synchros/shift fork replacement
Clutch install
True Duals install

In addition I have 7 other references of FBodies that came out of this shop with similar problems or severe problems... all costing a pretty penny to fix!

 

Pics of exhaust

Exhaust write up from 2 outside sources... Names also not being disclosed.. these were the problems with the system when I took it elsewhere and attempted to get it repaired before just finally getting it replaced...

*Exhaust rests on rear axle, no suspension travel on passanger side of car, when car hits bump the exhaust smacks into the upper panhard bar causing a clunk and also bends exhaust pipe

*passanger rear brake line pinched between exhaust and rear axle, outer protective layer is damaged and inner is showing wear... possible to burst soon

*exhaust hanger under passanger rear seat supporting midpipe and xpipe has ripped a 2x2 inch hole in the floor board, exhaust hanger was just welded to the floor without any support and the floor board was not strong enough to support it. Exhaust gas capable of leaking into car and also heat may cause fire with the carpet

*rear exhaust hanger weld broken, exhaust just resting on axle

*SLP 3 inch Y-pipe was just cut and used with the new system, the 3 inch to 2.5 inch reduction has about 4 inches of 2.5 inch pipe inside the 3 inch HIGHLY restricting airflow, in addition the reduction welds are leaking badly

*SLP pipes are badly banging against driver floor board

*Mufflers are actually 2.25 inch in and 2.25 inch outlet mufflers, expander used to make it fit the 2.5 inch pipes. Restricting flow.

*Rusting on ALL pipes except for the X-pipe and SLP y-pipe occured because 409 grade stainless was used... it just does not contain 8-10% nickel that quality pipes use. The nickel and chromium added to the stainless is what makes it extremely resistant to rust & corrosion.

*All welds are cracking, leaking or rusting, many have already broken and left small leaks. Leaks can be seen by the black carbon surrounding the welds.

*2.5 inch pipes coming off the 3 inch SLP pipes are not supported by any brackets and are resting on the driveshaft loop causing a rattle. Bracket needed!


[Modified by Y2K1 SS 5.0 THIS, 12:32 AM 11/7/2003]

 

Pics of exterior and interior


I didnt have time to get all the pictures last night so heres where most of the money is going to come into repairs... and this stuff should not have even been an issue.

The Above shows all the pictures of problems with the car beyond the exhaust or mechanical problems... they are as follows:

*Paint permanatly damaged due to acid from the swap cooler draining on it and having it bake in the sun for 4-6 weeks. The spots WILL NOT come out of the paint no matter what kind of devices are used, its been through two complete details with buffers and paint cleaners.. still no luck.

*Driver seat, rear driver side seat and carpet are permanatly damaged due to the fact that the windows were left down while the swamp cooler was draining on the car. I have had 2 shops look at the car and the leather is permanatly damaged, as well as the holes in the carpet permanant

*Missing ECU bolts, and on one side the bolt attempted to be used was stripped and broken

*Wrong radiator shroud bolts, the ones used are some random bolt which has literally 1 thread inserted, which causes them to come loose all the time and the radiator to fall out

*two large cuts in the front fender, not scratches, but actual cuts in the urethane which cannot be repaired unless bondo is used

*Front fenders are bent out behind the wheel... while there was previously a small bend in one side, there was NO space in the fenders where as now there is a 3/4 inch gap in both sides from the car being jacked up incorrectly.

* Stops were NOT installed on the B&M shifter making shifts dangerous without the stops installed!

*Front Oil seal leaks BADLY on a 9 month old 2002 LS6 because he either didnt change the seal or the below effected it...

*All oil pan bolts are the standard 10mm bolts EXCEPT for the front two which he removed for the timing cover which are 1 silver 14mm bolt and 1 gold 15mm bolt... MUCH larger than the others so chances are the threads didnt match and an impact spun them in... leak could either be there or at the seal.

*Transmission 3rd gear synchros were all BRAND new, along with an upgraded shift fork... on day 3 of driving the car, the 3rd gear synchro went out (the car had fresh rear end gears so it had NOT been driven hard at all)... and 2 months later the entire tranny locked up with the sound of what sounded like change falling into a bowl when I finally got it out of gear... then the shifter was jammed and would not move. I had to buy a new tranny after that.

This is all for now and I will have more when I can get the car up on a lift! the rest of the problems will come with the transmission pictures. As far as disputing the charges, I did, and he sent a letter to AMEX saying "the car is ALWAYS at the race track and dynos, and is constantly raced" Which made AMEX re-bill us. Truth is the car hasnt been to a track in over a year... and hasnt been running well enough for a dyno pull other than the one that it went to the day after the install... the car made 20 rwhp LESS than when it went in with some pretty heavy mods being done!


[Modified by Y2K1 SS 5.0 THIS, 12:35 AM 11/7/2003]

 

This post is useless since you didnt name the shop. I would like to know who it is if you want to email me.

Also expect your post to be locked since this is not about C5 Tech.

 

1st Performance in Mesa, AZ...

Far as the car not being a vette... theres LOTS of vette owners in the area, you wouldnt want one of them to have this happen now would you? :)

 

Wow that really sucks, I feel for you and hope you can get some resolve.

 

I understand, its good to warn people. I doubt the moderators will see it that well. This might be more appropriate in the Southwest section.

ps: pistons are upside down.


[Modified by 66ImpalaLT1, 12:47 AM 11/7/2003]

 

Working on it as we speak... hoping to get something done soon! Im REALLY nervous about that oil coming out of the crank seal... Engine is barely 9 months old and cost me almost $8,000 installed :(

 

haha yep! Thats a 383 being put together by another guy around here, he snapped the pics and stuck them online... was in for a kick when he found out they were installed upsidedown! Good thing he caught it and made the shop fix it before tossing the heads on! If I had only seen this one coming...

 

I would sue or go to the BBB... those people owe you a new exhaust, interior, body panels and whatever else they messed up :cuss :nono:

 

Sounds like a shop to stay away from if all these problems pop up. :smash:

 

Man, that is some of the crappiest workmanship I have ever seen. Who ever did those welds must have been joking...

Good Luck it looks like you have your hands full

 

The piston manufacturer installed your valve reliefs on the wrong side of the pistons :jester
Sorry to hear about your problems and I hope you get it straightened out.

 

Worst exhaust job I've EVER seen. :nonod: Pathetic! :U :mad :mad