Torque Converter questions... what does it feel like?
The car is perfect as is, the only mod I've done to it was probably adding a garage door opener to the visor. But the mod itch gets stronger every year, so I'm thinking a TQ and 3.42 gears might be on the horizon.
I'd like to hear about everything that I'll notice when driving my car after this mod. What is it like cruising at 15, 25, 40, 65, 120, 165 etc... what is it like hitting the gas from a stop without touching the brake first... what does it feel like to rev the gas while cruising along through town in gear... what if my wife or grandmother were to drive the car, would the car drive any diferently (and exactly how would it be diferent) than before this mod...
...Or, if anyone around SLC, UT has done this mod let me know when I can come out on the road with you.


For an A$ thwere is no better mod than a TC and Gears.
I have a Yank SS3600 2.5 STR (The higher the str the harder it hits and the tighter it is around town, but you might need sticky tires to hook)
It feels like you were shot out of a cannon and it is agreat addition to any A4.
Thanks and sorry for limited detail :rolleyes: :D :cheers:
[Modified by 2001 Red Coupe Bandit, 6:13 PM 11/21/2003]
U have a Yank SS3600 2.5 STR (The higher the str the harder it hits and the tighter it is around town, but you might need sticky tires to hook)
It feels like you were shot out of a cannon and it is agreat addition to any A$.
Gary is right on target, get at least a 3500 stall or you will wish you had. I am living proof of that, I started out with a PT2400 and 3.42 gears. This combo feels and drives like stock until you get on it from a standstill. It has much more lowend grunt than the stock T/C and 3.15s. But it leaves a lot to be desired from a roll, and does not have high shift extension. I next went to the ST3500 and 3.73s, this combo is a vast improvement in performance from a roll and from a standstill. With 3.73s looseness is not very noticeable and you will hardly notice it after you drive this combo for a day or two. My current combo is a TCS4200 and 3.73s, this combo is simply awesome. But it is noticeably more loose than the ST3500 and 3.73 gears. Overall I would rate the ST3500 and 3.73s as the best perfomance and driveability combo I have had. The 4200 is better performance wise but the ST3500 is better for everyday driveability. The SS3600 is an updated version of the ST3500 and is worth considering IMHO. If you can handle a bit more stall the SS3800 would also be a good candidate. :cheers:
[Modified by Mitch C, 10:55 PM 11/20/2003]
GREAT write-up :thumbs: Thanks!!! But, what would your opinion be if the car was blown with like 6-7 psi from an ATI?? Would the same 3500 t/c & 3.73's still be your choice??
Bearing in mind it would be a mostly street driven car??
:seeya
GREAT write-up :thumbs: Thanks!!! But, what would your opinion be if the car was blown with like 6-7 psi from an ATI?? Would the same 3500 t/c & 3.73's still be your choice??
Bearing in mind it would be a mostly street driven car??
:seeya
Unless someone in Utah has done this already in which case I'd make plans to come drive with them... if anyone here could describe all the ways their car handles diferently in some detail during diferent driving scenarios. I've pretty much decided on the Yank 3500 and 3.42 gears, there are tons and tons of posts I've searched through on the forums about varios setups that I've appreciated. So let me close my eyes and describe to me how a higher stall is going to affect the drive during all diferent parts of the driving experience for all of us on the other side of the converter. :auto:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


Unless someone in Utah has done this already in which case I'd make plans to come drive with them... if anyone here could describe all the ways their car handles diferently in some detail during diferent driving scenarios. I've pretty much decided on the Yank 3500 and 3.42 gears, there are tons and tons of posts I've searched through on the forums about varios setups that I've appreciated. So let me close my eyes and describe to me how a higher stall is going to affect the drive during all diferent parts of the driving experience for all of us on the other side of the converter. :auto:
#1 Stand as still as humanly possible and close your eyes.
#2 Have the biggest SOB that you can find stand approximately 2' behind you.
#3 (this is the most important part) As you yell "Hit it!" imagine your right foot depressing the gas metal to the floor and at the same time have that big SOB take his right foot and kick you in the butt as hard as he possibly can.
This is exactly how it feels!
:jester
[Modified by Mitch C, 1:27 PM 11/21/2003]
First of all..the stock torque converter is about a 1200-1400 stall..that means that the TC is engaging at a relatively LOW rpm to give you a very smooth but NOT very efficient power conversion to the wheels..bottom line the stock TC is JUNK!..Now..what you can expect from the aftermarket TC's out there is a muliplication of torque transferred to the rear wheels..another words ..you will be accelerating the torque to a more usuable rpm...wher the power is! Most manufacturers will suggest 2800-3500...I'm in agreement with that unless you have plans to add a cam or other bolt on modifications to increase the RWHP/RWT significantly and choose to race the vehicle..:yesnod:
You still with me? OK now...Once you have chosen the Torque converter stall that your comfortable with you have it installed by a competant transmission tech (hopefully with at least a 3.42 Getrag gear) and the first experience will be a more responsive throttle and perhaps some looseness in the converter...that is NORMAL..remember that now the converter must reach a higher rpm to engage and that is a unusual feeling for the novice not familiar with the sensation ..Enter the Transgo shift kit ...AND..PCM tuning via LS1 Edit ..OR a Diable Predator. This is truly necessary for best results..IMO :yesnod: The Transgo shift kit will give you instant lightning quick shifts and allow you to maximize the new found driveline power conversion to the wheels...and excellent value at only $110 for the kit and maybe $175-$200 for installation..a MUST HAVE in my book and many who have followed my lead. The PCM tuning will be necessary because you have now changed the speed calibration from the transmission..and you want to recalibrate the shift points for optimum effeciency and performance. ...alos a must have if you are to do this right the first time!!
Now..we're getting to the good part :smash: Once this all has been done you will now have a completley effecient and powerful transistion of power fronm the engine to the rear wheels..absolutely NIGHT and DAY from before the installation..You will be experiencing a much more responsive passing gear as well a off the line launch..traction can be a issue you will have to deal with if you have to much fun..Bottom line ...DO IT!!..but do it RIGHT!! Get competant people to do the installation and tuning and maybe one day you can reply to someones questions as I just have.. :lol:
BTW..If your asking for recommendations on a TC/gear swap..I would go with the YANK SS3600 and a 3.42 getrag gear...and don't forget the TRANSGO shift kit!! ...Good Luck:D


[Modified by wallstAL, 4:08 PM 11/21/2003]
I thought it was a blast when I had the SY3500 installed with 3.42 gears. Now I upgraded to the SS3800.........slingshot effect! :D
#1 Stand as still as humanly possible and close your eyes.
#2 Have the biggest SOB that you can find stand approximately 2' behind you.
#3 (this is the most important part) As you yell "Hit it!" imagine your right foot depressing the gas metal to the floor and at the same time have that big SOB take his right foot and kick you in the butt as hard as he possibly can.
This is exactly how it feels!
---------------------------
LMAO:rofl: , Funny Mag Red!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bandit here again OK:
CONS:
1. Your Car will Need slightly more pedal to get moving (but should roll forward fine when you let of the brake with no gas).
2. Your Exhaust (especially if you have a loud aftermarket one) will be louder because your pushing higher rpm's while crusing around.
3. Gas Mileage might go down slightly, but the fun factor will triple.
4. Another Con is you will probably buy a conservative Torque Converter like a Yank 3000 or a PT 2800 and then you will be used to the power and finally "Get It" when it comes to the Torque Converter thing. Then the con is you will have to pay a bunch of money to swap out your small converter that everyone todl you not to get in the 1st place and put in your Larger stall Converter that should have went in in the 1st place
:lol: :eek: :smash: :D
Con is The labor cost to put in a TC and gears might be around $500-$600
Also, if you get 3.42 gears and a Bigger stall TC, you will need ot get your car reprogrammed via LS1 Edit to make it feel and drive better and to get your shift point modified. A good tuner will make your TC Car drive awesome around town. A Good tuner makes every mod feel better.
Note***You should have seen ALL THE People ON THIS FORUM trying to talk me out of the Yanl SS3600 2.5 STR on my car which is 96% street driven, they said, it's too much for the street don't get it. They were wrong, even with stock tires, yes they spin, but you can control the converter with your right foot. Even I am doing what I just TOLD YOU, I wished I had gotten the SS3800 and when my tranny takes a dump, I will be upgrading to something bigger like the 3800 or even a custom SS4000.
That is a good start. Good Luck :cheers:
[Modified by 2001 Red Coupe Bandit, 6:34 PM 11/21/2003]
I went from 2.73's to 3.42's and the Yank SY3500 plus TransGo. :yesnod:
The first time I put the car in D(at the shop) it hardly moved. That took
a little getting used to. Past that the car drives and performs just as it
would in stock form...until...you go WOT. :lol: Depending on your tires
you have a good chance of going sideways, especially if traction control
is turned off. This act will garner a unremovable grin from ear-to-ear for
about the next 20-minutes. :D I've done long trips(2500+ miles) and the
car is fine at highway speeds of 55-80, and you can still pull 25-29 gallons
a mile. I rung up a 165 run with the 2.73's, and have hit 140 too many times,
but have'nt done a top speed run with this set-up, but then what's the point.
Definitely a worthy mod, but it's not cheap, and it requires serious skillz
to have the install done correctly. The TransGo and a tranny cooler are
recommended as heat is the big killer on the A4 transmission. You'll notice
your RPMs bumped up a bit while at speed, which if you have an aftermarket
exhuast and/or headers will substantionally increase the tone(volume) of your
exhaust. Not a bad thing :eek:
It's by far the best mod to wake-up the car and 'completely' remove it from
stock form.
I have radio friends in SLC, but they own Audis & VWs, not Corvettes.
Good luck :cheers:
[Modified by Purerock105, 9:04 PM 11/21/2003]
How many miles before one can expect the stock tranny to give up the ghost after these (high stall converter, shift kit, and gears) modifications assuming minimal engine modifications?
to have the install done correctly. The TransGo and a tranny cooler are
recommended as heat is the big killer on the A4 transmission. You'll notice
your RPMs bumped up a bit while at speed, which if you have an aftermarket
exhuast and/or headers will substantionally increase the tone(volume) of your
exhaust. Not a bad thing :eek:
It's by far the best mod to wake-up the car and 'completely' remove it from
stock form.
[Modified by Purerock105, 9:04 PM 11/21/2003]
Counting parts (torque converter, tranny cooler, shift kit, gears) and labor what does the total come to, ballpark figure? I'm talking about everything, including fluids and reprogramming. When I was looking into this I was quoted a fee of $3300.00 and that did not include the shift kit and the tranny cooler. This seemed a bit high.
















