Rubbing nise from right rear
All comments welcomed, thanks for support
Mike P. (aka "Old Sarg") USAF
Save the Wave :flag :cheers: :steering:





I did contact GM Customer Service and expressed my concerns about the rear end of the car having problems after my factory warranty expires next month. They were helpful and gave me an extension on the warranty for the rear end for 6 years/60K miles from the in service date. Not too bad.
I have had customers that use car washes and a few mishaps running over things, bend the metal bracket at the end of the rear spring. This will rub against the inside of the wheel (rim) some times only in turns and when hitting bumps. Most of the corvettes with this problem have been lowered.
When looking under the corvette it looks like it will not rub the rim but when weight is transferred it will drag. Just bend the bracket back without damaging the spring. Also check the rear tie rods, especially if you track the corvette on road courses. I have completely burnt the rear tie rod bushings down to metal.
Hope this helps.
Marc,
TECH 1794 http://WWW.GMPartsDirect.com
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...&partnumber=C5
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Thanks
Mike P. :flag :cool: :cheers: :thumbs:
Maybe try raising the right rear side a few threads & see if it goes away..
Or, you can try this.. from the top of the tire in the wheel well, see if you can fit 3 fingers in the gap. If you can't fit in 3, your car may be too low.
I have found when I have a 2 finger gap, the tire will rub on occasion.
With a 3 finger gap, even with a passenger, no more rub..
Just a thought....
Ellis
[Modified by indypace78, 6:32 PM 11/26/2003]
If so, could be the limited slip chatter that is common. Way to tell for sure...... go to a big parking lot. Do the tightest figure 8 you can. You don't need to go fast. If you go about 5mph and hear a metal scrap from the rear with your windows shut, its probably the rearend. Drain and refill the rearend with the proper gear oil and additive. Also, just driving around in the figure 8 pattern can cause the noise to go byebye for a while. The diff fluid and additive have a tendency to separate easily. Personally I use Royal Purple in the differential as its premixed and doesn't separate.
I also had an aftermarket exhaust on my previous C5. The right side muffler would rattle against the heat shield during turns. I used some spacers above the rear rubber holders and that fixed the problem by giving more clearance. You can check if this is the problem by grabbing one of your mufflers and bouncing it up and down. If it hits the heat shield without much effort, this could be the problem. I stuffed a couple of thick oven mitts above my mufflers to verify the problem, then fixed permanently with the spacers.
JDs00PewterCoupe,
That's very interesting. Find out the part number or GM Spec for that new stuff, would 'ya. The current GM spec calls for a GL-5 with a GM performance Spec# 9986115 (or something like that) and then the limited slip additive. The Royal Purple stuff I've used is synthetic base, but it does have some percentage of mineral oil for improved resistance to scuffing and scoring of the gears and clutches. I have had a small amount of chatter from both C5s that I've owned, but no noise once I switched to RP fluid.
Thanks for help
Mike :cool: :cheers: :flag
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Thanks for help
Mike :cool: :cheers: :flag
You can go to RP's website....... http://www.royalpurple.com ...... they have a good dealer locator on-line. You might have to order on-line, and there are several Internet Dealers that carry this stuff.
You want the Max-Gear 75W-90 Synthetic. About $9 per quart. You will need 2 quarts....... the diff takes 1.7qts. Heat it up for about 30 minutes on the street. Raise the car...... get it level. Drain and refill to just below or at the fill plug. Lower car...... drive in about 10 tight figure 8s to get the fluid coated on the clutches. I would tell the new owner to change at every 10,000 to 25,000 miles. I changed at 10,000 miles and the crap coming out was filthy. Per GM there is no fluid change needed...... ever..... but the fluid on mine was so dirty it was scary.
Next I'm doing my tranny.
This does not sound like the rear diff discs, if its only on side and the way you described it. But yes you need limited-slip additive add 4.0 ounces to the Diff and add 1.69 qts of Diff Lubricant .
The rear spring bracket can be repaired by removing the rear left wheel and tap the rear bracket back in place with a hammer VERRY lightly without damaging the spring. Also check all caliper mounts.
Hope this helps
Marc
Thech 1794 http://WWW.GMPartsDirect.com
[Modified by GmPartsDirect.com, 10:03 AM 11/28/2003]
I just experienced a similar situation after changing to Z06 size wheels on my 99 FRC. So, I put the rear on jack stands and rotated the right rear wheel to see if I could see what was scraping. As it turned out, the wider wheel was scraping against the emergency brake cable. If you look at the way the emergency brake cable is routed, the cable coming very close to the inside of the rear wheel. This cable is attached to the underside fo the trunk with a small clamp. However, the clamp does not clamp that well and will allow the cable to slip through and result in the emergency brake cable touching the inside rim of the wheel. I just pulled the cable back through the clamp and placed a tight wire tie on the cable to prevent it from moving.
I hope this helps.
Danny :steering:













