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Ok, so i read past posts and the helper in the tech tips, but that is not my problem. My problem is too much slack in the line. I had the seat removed so i could get a good look at what is going on. When i pull the handle, the cable only catches on the first click and then nothing while i pull the handle to the top. How do i tighten the slack in the cable. Thanks for the help :cheers:
You either have a defective mechanical linkage... you can roll the car in reverse while pulling up sharply on your lever four or five times..... this is designed to take up slack in the cable... or adjust the shoes...
i know the shoes aren't the problem, when i pull the handle it is not really grabbing the cable...looks like i will have to rip this apart tomorrow to see if it can be fixed
:nonod:
Sounds like the parking brake mechanism is through, try pulling it up slowly and see if it catches. I've been succesful about 40 percent of the time with this.
by the way..you cant call it an emergency brake anymore..kinda like the "firewall" is now a bulhead. :nonod:
The adjuster lever is automatic, there is no cable adjustment or lever adjustment.
If it grabs the teeth and pulls tight then the problem is inside the rear drum hats.
The most effective repair is to remove the rotors and replace the park shoes and make sure the drum hat surface is in good condition.
Replace the caliper bracket bolts, the big ones that hold the bracket to the knuckle. The new ones come with a loctite patch that is essential to proper retention of the bolts. Torque fasteners to spec.
Help me out brother bowtie, the knuckle needs to come off for shoe replacement does it not?
Proper adjustment of the shoe is critical for good operation of the "park assist" brake.
The adjuster lever is automatic, there is no cable adjustment or lever adjustment.
If it grabs the teeth and pulls tight then the problem is inside the rear drum hats.
That's just it, when i pull the handle it goes right to the top and the cable doesn't move. I will be taking the handle mechanism apart today to see if there is anything wrong with it
Then my advice is to replace the handle aseembly, there are no servicable parts, at least not through GM, perhaps someone has had luck with it but as a dealer tech, I replace the whole unit, you will not believe how hard it is to do either.
It takes me quite a while, you already have the seat out probably, unhooking the handle from the floor is easy, unhooking the cables from underneath the car and getting the front cable out of the bracket is nearly impossible, it's fairly easy on a 6 speed but on an automatic your only hope is to take off the right muffler for access and pray you can get the cable out of the bracket.
Also there is a push in fastener that holds the cable to the floor pan up by the front edege of the trans, you can get it out with a long thin bar, getting it back in is tricky also.
I had the same problem on my 98 coupe. Remove the Passenger seat, the aft section/center arm rest of your console. This will aloow you to remove the E-brake leather side cover to allow you to see how your E-brake operates. You will see the paw that enguages the the geared/teeth section to the mechanizism. The lub on this piece over time turns into a glob of SH***t gumes up this little piece and no matter what you do by pushing in on the release button and pulling up on the brake handel will not enguage the teeth/gear the pulls on the cable to applies the rear brake's. I cleaned this part off and put some white Lithium gease and my brake works awsome.
FWIW, below is what the ebrake assembly at the wheel looks like. I took the opportunity to tighten it when I mounted my Eradispeeds and it's been wicked ever since.
hmmmmmmmm. If mikep is correct and the pawl is the problem, try going after the area with some major shots of brake cleaner or gunscrubber (more aggressive). I've done this to very complex winches that I did not want to risk taking apart. (Same for old turn signal switches.) It will eat up the old grease which does in fact turn to %#@* after about 5 years. A grease frozen pawl will stop any gear from catching properly. (Protect your carpet.) Let us know!
hmmmmmmmm. If mikep is correct and the pawl is the problem, try going after the area with some major shots of brake cleaner or gunscrubber (more aggressive). I've done this to very complex winches that I did not want to risk taking apart. (Same for old turn signal switches.) It will eat up the old grease which does in fact turn to %#@* after about 5 years. A grease frozen pawl will stop any gear from catching properly. (Protect your carpet.) Let us know!
That was my exact problem...i took the seat out and then removed the handle. I hit it with some kroil and a wire brush, then some wd-40 and it works perfect now!!!!
GREAT!! I felt certain a nuclear chemistry technician could solve this problem. Before you put it all back together, may I suggest you hit the pawl area with some aerosol Dupont Super Lube and work it into the pawl. That stuff can sit in salt spray and tropical sun (in a sailboat winch) for many years without turning to @#^%. You won't have this problem again until c7's are out. Glad to help.
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