Engine Bottom End
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 839
Likes: 1
From: Winston Salem N.C.
Re: Engine Bottom End (100Bucks)
100Bucks,
The Crankshaft Assembly is a nodular iron cast with undercut and rolled fillets. Casting P/N 12552216.
Marc
TECH 1794 http://WWW.GMPartsDirect.com http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?specials=1
:flag :flag :flag
The Crankshaft Assembly is a nodular iron cast with undercut and rolled fillets. Casting P/N 12552216.
Marc
TECH 1794 http://WWW.GMPartsDirect.com http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?specials=1
:flag :flag :flag
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Re: Engine Bottom End (GmPartsDirect.com)
Sooo, does that make the crank a good one? If somebody was looking into doing a "forged bottom end" would it require a new crank too? How much HP can the stock crank support? :seeya
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 1
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Engine Bottom End (kumar75150)
I think you can live with a stock crank unless you are going pretty extreme. I havent really heard of any cranks failing. I would say 600rwhy easy.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Crystal River Florida
Re: Engine Bottom End (kumar75150)
I'm an old drag racer but a new C5 owner. I'm probably old fashioned or out of step with the modern technology in these fine cars, but I personally would be skeptical about twisting one of these stock bottom ends too tight.
I really don't know too much about powdered metal connecting rods and how they stack-up against forged or billet rods but I would think that if you were wanting to spend a lot of time at 6000 rpm and up, you'd be really rolling the dice doing it with a cast crank.
Maybe I'm out of touch with this because I've seen lots of threads on this site with folks installing all kinds of bolt-on stuff and putting out pretty big numbers and apparently having the engines live.
But then again maybe they just don't post when they scatter it. :jester
So, I take it that these stock bottom ends are pretty rugged?
I really don't know too much about powdered metal connecting rods and how they stack-up against forged or billet rods but I would think that if you were wanting to spend a lot of time at 6000 rpm and up, you'd be really rolling the dice doing it with a cast crank.
Maybe I'm out of touch with this because I've seen lots of threads on this site with folks installing all kinds of bolt-on stuff and putting out pretty big numbers and apparently having the engines live.
But then again maybe they just don't post when they scatter it. :jester
So, I take it that these stock bottom ends are pretty rugged?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Crystal River Florida
Re: Engine Bottom End (CANOE U)
I have a little trouble with the search feature as well.
Sometimes I have typed-in the exact title of a thread that I know exists and the search says it can find no such animal.
This is an important skill to master because if you start a thread that has been discussed before you sometimes incur the wrath of the veterans here.
Sometimes I have typed-in the exact title of a thread that I know exists and the search says it can find no such animal.
This is an important skill to master because if you start a thread that has been discussed before you sometimes incur the wrath of the veterans here.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
From: Castle Rock Co
Re: Engine Bottom End (CANOE U)
The crank is fine, if you are going to twist it 7000+ alot, then you might need new rods.
I think the stock rods with ARP bolts, stock crank and forged pistons ought to be plenty for 99.9% of the street-strip cars.
For my car, I will probably even stay with hypereutectic pistons.
I think the stock rods with ARP bolts, stock crank and forged pistons ought to be plenty for 99.9% of the street-strip cars.
For my car, I will probably even stay with hypereutectic pistons.