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In the process of removing my wheels for the first time, for a through cleaning and polishing. I ran into a large problem. The lug nuts broke loose ok, but the locks wouldn't budge. I tried a four way, after a good deal straining the key lugwrench stripped the lock. All four are that way. The book says not to use an air gun with the key, maybe the guys at Bowling Green didn't read that. Anyone else have that problem. Oh yea first post Gary :mad :confused:
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Re: tight lug nut locks (3RD-INF)
Wow! Those puppies sound tight! :eek: Sure hope you don't have to get into
the hammer and chisel mode! Never had that problem myself with the lug nuts. I am however, a firm believer in applying a thin coat of anti-seize compound on the mating surfaces of the back of the wheels and hub surface around the studs after cleaning. Saves on potential problems later. Good luck and welcome to the forum!
I always tighten the lock lug nuts first when installing and loosen them first when removing the wheel. Try torquing the lug nuts and then try removing the locking lug. Good luck.
I tried everything I knew to remove the locks. The paint on the neck of the four way was starting to crack, that alot of torque. They should never be that hard to remove. Finally the slots gave way on the locks. I called the dealer and bitched. They said that they will fix it on Monday, I hope.
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Re: tight lug nut locks (3RD-INF)
May have to resort to the socket hammered over the lug routine. I think I would first try some liquid wrench (or something similar), then use the socket.
I'm glad you got them off. The locking nut should always be the first one removed.
Also, putting any kind of lubricant on the wheel stud threads is a major no-no. You will not get accurate torque readings. What will happen is a snapped bolt, broken lug or cracked wheel. All of the threads on the studs and the lugs should be clean and free of any oils. If you have put anti-seize, WD40, etc on these, use a spray brake cleaner to clean it off.
I had the same problem on my 2000. The first time I removed the whells (22000 miles) the locks were much tighter. I had to use a breaker bar, with care not to strip. Now all are torqued to 100lbs. :cuss
Pep Boys, and I am sure other auto parts houses, sell a set of sockets that have left hand treads inside of them and when screwed onto the outside of a stripped or a lost keyed lug nut, it screws itself onto the lug nut until it bottoms out then unscrews the lug nut. Once the nut is off grind two flats onto the nut and clamp into vice and remove socket.
The easy way to get them off is to use a six point socket. Find the one that is one size smaller than the outside diameter of the locking nut. Take your ball pene hammer and drive it on the locking nut about 3/8 - 1/4". The points of the socket will cut into the softer lock nut metal. Use a breaker bar and twist them off. Place socket in vice and use a drift punch to drive out lock nut, repeat 3 more times. Then throw those useless locks away and buy 4 new lugs from the dealer. Should take you about 20 minutes. :D
Best to let the dealer take care of this problem. I was in the same situation and found that lots & lots of force would get the lock nuts off. I was lucky that nothing else got screwed up. The lock nuts went directly into the trash and replaced with the normal nut. Theft risk is minimal as the perso who really wants your tires & wheels will get them no matter how many lock nuts are on the car. Elimination of the lock nuts also makes your life easier when you go to change tires. :steering: