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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Engine missing?
I just changed my plugs and my engine sound different (rougher idle) to me. I tried to make sure that I got all the plug wires seated well both to the plugs and the other end (points I think?) I used NGK TR6 with a .035 gap. When idling the RMP fluctuate slightly (less than 100 RPM). Is there anyway that I can tell if the engine is hitting on all cylinders without going to GM dealer to get hosed? Thanks
Find a buddy with a scanner. You should be able to hear a miss from behind the car. Also make sure that your plug wires aren't on the headers. Good luck.
Travis
Just for the record.. my car does the same exact idle fluctuation. From 600-800 rpm from time to time. Oh, and you mentioned the gap of the plugs you got, but did you actually check the gap yourself on each plug before you installed them?
I never trust the pre-gap measurement. I've seen some come straight out of the box with no gap at all..!!
I had a miss in my engine, turned out to be a loose connector tip on several spark plugs, one had completely unscrewed itself, but the spark plug wire boot held all the pieces together and so it was an intermitant but noticable miss.
Also you should be using NGK TR55 plugs at their stock .057 gap with your mods, TR6's and .035 gap are for a 500rwhp car.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Re: Engine missing? (dpd)
So are these plugs hurting the car? I was told by the guy I got them from that they would be just as good as any other plug and that they would not help or hurt performance. He told me to gap them at .035. So are you saying that I just wasted some money here? :confused:
IMO,you wasted your money,unless you are running high compression,nitrous
,or a supercharger,you are running too cold of a plug.eventually you are going to foul out.the heat range of a spark plug doesn't mean a hotter/colder spark.it's the plugs ability to disipate heat into the cooling system[as the plug fires,the heat has to travel up the center and into the cylinder head coolant jacket to cool off.the heat range is determined by the length of travel from the center of the electrode to where the base of the plug.the shorter the length,the cooler the plug,the cooler the plug,the cooler the tip,too cool of a tip=misfires,rough running].
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Re: Engine missing? (dpd)
Okay so what is the ideal plug for my application? Is a spark plug going to help HP and TQ? Or is it just a matter of plug life and smooth idle issues? Thanks for all the help :yesnod:
i run the ngk's-tr55's or the iridium IV's.gm just came out with their 985's[new "updated plug"].some guys like the denso's.whatever you use,use the correct heat range.
Ccajun4real I bought the NGK TR55's here in Fayetteville at the advance auto on raeford RD if you need some help let me know. I did mine 2 weeks ago, car runs smother the gap was .55 I believe :thumbs:
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Re: Engine missing? (msghuff)
Ccajun4real I bought the NGK TR55's here in Fayetteville at the advance auto on raeford RD if you need some help let me know. I did mine 2 weeks ago, car runs smother the gap was .55 I believe :thumbs:
MSG,
I will run by there and get some tommorow. Damn I hate to go through all of that again. :nonod: Took me almost two hours and some sore hands to do those plugs. Oh well guess it has to be done. Kinda upsetting that a guy I trusted led me wrong though :yesnod: and cost me some money.
Anyone want some NGK TR6 plugs used for two days and about 6 miles. :D
First off I doubt the TR6's are causing your engine to misfire. Most likely you did not properly seat a plug wire on the coil pack. Remember one click on the plugs and two clicks to the coil pack. I do agree that TR55's are better for your set up. Second a plug change should take only 40 minutes tops. Number seven is obviously the hardest one so I star there first with a swivel and 3inch extension in front of a 6 inch extension placing the 6 inch on only after seating the socket w/3 inch on the plug first. Thirdly it's difficult to have sympathy for someone owning a $50,000 car with thousands of $$$ in mods complaining about $17.00 in plugs. Sorry not bashing here just trying to make a point .........if your gona play your gona pay. I have pissed away more $$$ on mistakes than I wish to admit. :reddevil
No wonder your engine is not running right. Your gap is WAY too small!!! You should regap them to .54 and your problem will be gone.
I just changed my plugs and my engine sound different (rougher idle) to me. I tried to make sure that I got all the plug wires seated well both to the plugs and the other end (points I think?) I used NGK TR6 with a .035 gap. When idling the RMP fluctuate slightly (less than 100 RPM). Is there anyway that I can tell if the engine is hitting on all cylinders without going to GM dealer to get hosed? Thanks
I thought that the reason you were using that plug was for the nitrous coming soon. You should probably check the tips on the plugs and make sure they are tight. Also make sure the wires are seated good.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Re: Engine missing? (goodhands)
Thirdly it's difficult to have sympathy for someone owning a $50,000 car with thousands of $$$ in mods complaining about $17.00 in plugs. Sorry not bashing here just trying to make a point .........if your gona play your gona pay. I have pissed away more $$$ on mistakes than I wish to admit. :reddevil
Well you may just dismiss money as no big deal but I dont care if I wasted .10 I am not happy about it and if you are then you either have way too much money or you are just a wasteful person. Sorry not bashing here just trying to make a point :D