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Check valve behind intake??

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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:08 PM
  #1  
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Default Check valve behind intake??

I just had the car serviced for hot idle problem and the ran a Tech II diagnostic. This told them that the check valves for air injection system were bad. One was reasonable, but then they quoted me 500+ dollars due to the fact that one of the check valves was behind the intake manifold and they had to remove it. Is this really the only way? How can I change this myself and save some money. Thanks. :)
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:32 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

You can do it yourself if you are so inclined, be sure you get a new intake gasket set. It should take you a couple of hours to do and while you are under there make sure that the knock sensors are tight. $500 is a rip off. Get another estimate if you don't want to do it yourself. The drivers side is about a 15 min. job at the most, easy to do. Is your dic throwing codes? (p1415 driver side, p1416 passenger side). I wouldn't worry if it's not. It is very common for the check valves to rust and malfunction.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:40 PM
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (B. Stewart)

So it sounds like the only way to change it is to remove the intake. The code that started all of this is p0410 which is a failure with the Air injection system. I am also having a hot start Idle problem which the mechanics suggested that fixing the check valves might help with the hot start idle problem. They also stated that having the fuel injectors cleaned would help. Any ideas. Thanks.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 05:28 PM
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

Yep...pull the intake.
DIC code is AIR system.
That rear check value is a common failure.

I would not pay for the FI cleaning unless your are really rich and you have cheap gasoline in your area. I'd add redline fi cleaner and go for a good high rpm drive.

Can't help w/ your hot start issues.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (Kenny94945)


i'd ignore it unless it wont let you pass smog.. heh

:thumbs:


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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 05:42 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

The p0140 is the A.I.R. pump which on the C5 is electric and its only function right after start up until you start to warm up. I wouldn't worry about it right now unless you keep throwing codes.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 06:11 PM
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (B. Stewart)

Thanks, I just got it back and everything ran as before. I just pay for the diag and replacement of the driver's side check valve(the easy one as it appears). I will try some fuel injector cleaner and see what happens. Thanks again. :steering:
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 11:13 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

I replaced my rear check valve when I installed my H/C package. My buddy who helped me is one of the top C5 mechanics at my local dealer. He told me to get a new valve because he has replaced a few dozen lately. Cost me about $8 for the part and about 5 minutes to swap it out. I left the drivers side alone since its so easy to get to.

To answer your question, YES you have to remove the intake to get to the rear valve.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 06:58 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

The check valves are definitely a high fail item on C5's and F-bodies. I can't wait to remove all of that AIR related crap this week when I do my H/C install.

MTWallet, how you liking that PP package so far?
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 12:50 AM
  #10  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

typically you don't see a check valve cause a 410 dtc due to the fact that this is a failure for the whole system, where a 1415 or 1416 code will set when only one side is involved which would usually indicate a check valve problem, but not likey both valve's at one time, you can replace the valve without pulling the intake if you have a decent selection of tools. IM me and i will give you the blow by blow and you can do it in about 5 minutes. :thumbs:
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 02:09 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (chevythunder)

chevythunder, I would like to know how to replace the bank 2 check valve without removing the intake!! Please share with us all. That would save a huge amount of time and hassle.
Thanks!
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 07:33 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (chevythunder)

Oh great sensay. Please teach young Jedi the ways of the force. Sorry I don't have an IM client. Just a post boy. I will get with the technology thing soon or later. But really any information on this would be great. Thanks.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 09:01 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (BlackTex)

Guys, the intake is held down by 10..yes..10 bolts. Lets say it takes 2 minutes per bolt (ie, your hands are covered in butter and the tools keep slipping out). You can then disconnect the 2-3 things connected to the back in about another 2 minutes, and can slide the intake forward about a foot (leaving fuel lines connected). Unbolt the rear air pipe, put the new one on, put the intake back and bolt it back on. Drink beer.

If this takes any mechanic more than 45 minutes, I'd have some serious questions about their integrity. $500 is amazing. I'll document this process next week when I install LG headers (this exact task has to be done on certain years for the install), and show ya its simple. Then you can just send me $400 and we'll call it a deal. :)


[Modified by jmX, 8:04 PM 1/22/2004]
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #14  
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Default Re: Check valve behind intake?? (jmX)

Guys, the intake is held down by 10..yes..10 bolts. Lets say it takes 2 minutes per bolt (ie, your hands are covered in butter and the tools keep slipping out). You can then disconnect the 2-3 things connected to the back in about another 2 minutes, and can slide the intake forward about a foot (leaving fuel lines connected). Unbolt the rear air pipe, put the new one on, put the intake back and bolt it back on. Drink beer.

If this takes any mechanic more than 45 minutes, I'd have some serious questions about their integrity. $500 is amazing. I'll document this process next week when I install LG headers (this exact task has to be done on certain years for the install), and show ya its simple. Then you can just send me $400 and we'll call it a deal. :)


[Modified by jmX, 8:04 PM 1/22/2004]
10 BOLTS!?!?! That's over 42% more complicated than the 7 bolt intakes I've worked on before!

:lol: :lol: :lol:


[Modified by diynoob, 8:11 PM 1/22/2004]
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