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I know you don't want to hear this but you are much better off having a pro do it. There are some pricy gadgets that are needed to to set lash and depth. You would hate to get it back together and have it start to make noise several miles later. Only speaking from exp.
I did mine in about 6-7 hours, but I had two other vette friends helping me. Most essential items are a 4 point lift that will lift the car without breaking the rocker panels. Second essential item is the telescoping transmission jack. I used two, as not to bust a nut (mine, I'm talking about).
Pretty straight forward from there. Pull exhaust housing and exhaust. Pull rear carriage (remove calipers, upper A frame bolts, lower shock bolts, and wiring) Undo bolts and drop the entire rear carriage - drive shafts pull out when lowering (I used a telescoping trans jack to lower the carriage). Next I unbolted and slid the ABS assembly to the left.
I then lowered the diff, trans and torque tube just enough to unbolt the diff and remove (this is where the second/required trans jack was used) . Re assemble and clean up.
It's not rocket science, and don't be scared to try it. Just make sure you have everything before you start. BTW, I ordered a new diff gasket, and it was the wrong one from GM. I had to reuse the old one.
I did NOT remove the trans and torque tube. Once ABS was moved out of the way, and the trans/tube/engine was lowered, there was enough clearance to pull the diff and reinstall.
Sorry if I'm a little slow here. Whats ABS? Is it the cradle. And how did you lower the trans/tube/engine? If you did this as one piece are you talking disconnecting motor mounts? :confused: Thanks for the help.
It's the Advanced Braking System (anti-lock brakes) and it sits just aft of the cradle and diff. The cradle is actually the rear support for the engine/tube/trans. Once the cradle is out, they will just fall, so you have to support it with a telescoping transmission jack BEFORE removing the cradle. Once the cradle was down, we just lowered the trans jack while I watched the rear of the engine so it didn't contact the firewall. As soon as the diff was clear of the spare tire well, we unbolted and removed the diff. It has about a 10 inch shaft running out of the trans through the diff, so it took several trys. This is NOT the book method, but it saved us several hours of work and didn't harm anything.
The engine motor mounts are not touched. The still reside up front.
jjcslynn, thanks for your advise. Seems like it would save a fair amount of time to not drop the assembly all the way. As a matter of fact I don't see a disadvantage here.
Guys, I truely appreciate the advise, but may whimp out here since it'll probably take me four days to complete (in my 20 degree garage), plus buy jacks, and my wife's due with our third (big factor). waah! :cry :nopity
Bowtiebandit, I may take you up on that offer. If possible I'd like to assist/learn. E-mail sent. :cheers:
I've done two swaps and it's time consuming but not hard (5-6hrs). I'm going to do another in a few weeks and it should be even quicker. I haven't done one on an auto but I guess there's a few more steps involved.
jmzvet, your inspiring me again. Did you drop the entire drivetrain or just lower the back like jjcslynn? I'm not sure I can get the clearance to do this on jack stands and may require a lift.
I followed Mike Mercury's instructions and just lowered the rear on a scissor type tranny jack. There is no reason at all to remove the tranny or torque tube at least not on the 6spd cars I've done. The ABS unit wasn't in the way on my 2003 Coupe or a 2000 FRC I did. I had the car on jackstands and it helps to have an extra person to asst. with droping the rear cradle.