160 degree thermostat
I am having some work done to my car in the spring and was thinking of adding a 160 thermostat to the car. Anyone out there using the 160 give me some feed back and tell me how you like it and what the temps run around in the summer
QUIMBO :seeya :seeya SEEYAAAH
QUIMBO :seeya :seeya SEEYAAAH
i havent had mine in the summer yet.....but with a vortech S/C my coolant temps stay at 172 with the fans adjusted for it....mine is the hypertech 160deg. unit and 172 seems about perfect for my car :thumbs: :thumbs:
I've had a 160 in for three years, love it. Winter my temps stay in the 165-175 range, summer 170-180 with fans adjusted. Still get lotsa heat to keep the Vert warm when it's 30 degrees outside. :cool:
I've had a 160 in since the end of Oct.when the ATI was installed.Temp range
is ~ same as that above of 6Speeder.However,my car is a daily driver & never garaged.The low temp thermostat leaves something to be desired when the car has sat outside at 7 deg F.Unheated leather seats in the Z & the
still luke-warm cabin temp by the time I get to my shop are uncomfortable in really cold weather (< 10 deg F).[ However,I wouldn't trade this ride for anything else.]
is ~ same as that above of 6Speeder.However,my car is a daily driver & never garaged.The low temp thermostat leaves something to be desired when the car has sat outside at 7 deg F.Unheated leather seats in the Z & the
still luke-warm cabin temp by the time I get to my shop are uncomfortable in really cold weather (< 10 deg F).[ However,I wouldn't trade this ride for anything else.]
I have a Magnusson s/c and had the 160 thermostat installed along with it. Even on 100 degree plus days, as long as I don't gouge on the s/c, the temp runs at 178. Unlike the others, I don't have the cold weather concern.
:D
:D
I'm getting a H/C package soon and would it be best to put a 160 degree thermostat in at this time? Or just leave the factory one in, the cost of the part is nothing at only $45 since the labor will already be there.
I HAVE A 2002 6SPEED I'M MAKING 405 RWHP/393RWTQ. I RUN 160 STAT. CAR RUNS ABOUT 178-180. IT RAN SOMEWHAT COOLER BEFORE I PUT AN UNDER DRIVE PULLY. THAT'S BECAUSE IT TURNS SLOWER. NO PROBLEMS.
I think the 160 t-stat is a good, inexpensive mod. Helps the car stay cool in the summer, and has an acceptable warn up time...here in Texas anyway.
Can't really speak for the Northern area. I know you guys get some bone chilling temps up there! :crazy:
Can't really speak for the Northern area. I know you guys get some bone chilling temps up there! :crazy:
I also plan on doing the 160 degree thermostat as well as ASP pulley and LS6 intake all at the same time. What is meant by "adjusting the fan" as stated above? I plan on bringing it to one of the tuners down in NJ or southern NY after those parts are installed. Is that what is meant by that statement? Thanks in advance for any input. (Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread, hopefully this well help you also)
[Modified by kawipower, 9:47 PM 2/6/2004]
[Modified by kawipower, 9:47 PM 2/6/2004]
Cooler thermostats are only better when you have knock retard because of timing/PCM edits.
Generally, motor oil must reach 210F before burning off moisture. Also, at cooler temps the engine runs less efficient. Look around in racing books. Engine temp should be around 200 to 220F and moto oil temp should be around 210F for best efficiency and most power. Now that being said, a cooler intake is always better, but it is a myth that coolant at 160F will make more power by itself and is better for the engine.
Run an oil that is comfortable at 200 to 230F and retains its viscosity better than Mobil 1 such as Redline, bypass your TB coolant routing, run your ATF completely separate through the biggest ATF cooler you can fit (at least 24,000 GVWR if you bypass the in tank cooler). This mod will relieve your cooling system from the ATF heat load (I have doen this on all my cars and it is one of the best mods for an auto you can make).
I would recommend this instead of a 160F thermostat. Running a 160F will increase engien wear over the long run.
Generally, motor oil must reach 210F before burning off moisture. Also, at cooler temps the engine runs less efficient. Look around in racing books. Engine temp should be around 200 to 220F and moto oil temp should be around 210F for best efficiency and most power. Now that being said, a cooler intake is always better, but it is a myth that coolant at 160F will make more power by itself and is better for the engine.
Run an oil that is comfortable at 200 to 230F and retains its viscosity better than Mobil 1 such as Redline, bypass your TB coolant routing, run your ATF completely separate through the biggest ATF cooler you can fit (at least 24,000 GVWR if you bypass the in tank cooler). This mod will relieve your cooling system from the ATF heat load (I have doen this on all my cars and it is one of the best mods for an auto you can make).
I would recommend this instead of a 160F thermostat. Running a 160F will increase engien wear over the long run.
Adding the 160 tstat by itself will only give you a marginal reduction in temperature IMO. You will need to set the fan(via PCM programming) for a lower turn on and my suggestion is to drain the radiator and add a mix of water ONLY and the appropiate measure of REDLINE Water Wetter....It works!! :smash:
Cooler thermostats are only better when you have knock retard because of timing/PCM edits.
What if you want to run MORE timing than currently in the PCM without KR? With the 160 and adjusted fans I am now running 31 degrees advance @ WOT, and no KR. I couldn't do this at stock temps. :seeya

















