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This happened last year and it was a tank of bad fuel. I am on the 3rd tank now and it is still on.
I just changed the fuel filter and that did not help.
The car is stock, it runs fine, can't tell anything is wrong except for the Check engine light.
I bought new plugs but have not installed them yet. NGK TR55. That is what is in it right now for about 12K. I pulled a couple plugs and they look fine, but figured I would replace them anyway.
I noticed a write-up on Decarbonization Procedure in the tech tips. Will this help stop knocking?
I had the same problem this past summer. I washed the motor and got water in one of the knock sensor holes that is under the intake. You would think that the heat from the motor would dry it out, but it didn't. I pulled the intake dried the holes and replaced both sensor, and replaced the old intake with a LS6 :D
can't tell anything is wrong except for the Check engine light.
Will this help stop knocking?
Wait, I'm confused :confused:
are you getting a check engine light and the code is refrencing a knock sensor or is your engine knocking and you have the check engine light. If your engine is running rough you may have a P0300 which is a misfire (one or more cylinders aren't firing).
Either way you need to get your diagnostic codes and start from there, here are 2 links to help get you started, then post your codes and we'll see whats up.
The engine code is P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Front -B. And that is the only code.
The engine is not running rough. It runs great.
I ran it really hard the other day playing with a R6 moto... and then the check engine light went off for the next 10 miles. I am stumped.
Now I did wash the engine about a week before the code was set. So RONS97C5 may be right. But seems wierd that it would take a week for the sensor to fill with the water and set itself off, so I am dismissing that for now.
I will be changing plugs, and doing the decarb procedure from the tech tips this weekend. Hopefully the decarb will fix it.
If that does not get it then I was planning on changing the sensor...... Hope I don't have to go that far.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
The engine code is P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Front -B. And that is the only code.
The engine is not running rough. It runs great.
I ran it really hard the other day playing with a R6 moto... and then the check engine light went off for the next 10 miles. I am stumped.
Now I did wash the engine about a week before the code was set. So RONS97C5 may be right. But seems wierd that it would take a week for the sensor to fill with the water and set itself off, so I am dismissing that for now.
[Modified by motoracer, 3:54 AM 1/29/2004]
I'm sure that you have water in your front knock sensor hole. I had the same code a day after washing my engine. I went to my freinds garage and put it on a snapon comp, it said the sensor was" shorted to ground"
It takes time for the water to seep into the sensor and short it out. Pulling the intake isn't that big of a deal, I have the whole thing done in 2 hours. GM fix to the problem is to put a 1/4 in bead of RTV (as a diverter wall) all the way around each hole. I love GM's redneak fixes :skep:
I'm sure that you have water in your front knock sensor hole.
GM fix to the problem is to put a 1/4 in bead of RTV (as a diverter wall) all the way around each hole. I love GM's redneak fixes :skep:
I have the same thing on my 98 coupe. I have to go past emmisions so when they plug it into their computer is this something that will cause me to fail? And onto replacing it. I will have to take off the entire intake to reach/replace it? any thing else I should fix/do to a 76k car when i'm at this point? I bought a new knock sensor and it was pretty cheap at 37 bucks from the Chevy house. Whqt all will I need to complete this job and not need to make 3 trips to the dealer? and how many of these are on the "front circuit"???