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While the car is down for the winter months I want to kill all the tire noise in the back of the car, and possibly reduce the heat coming through from the center tunnel.
I have read the article in the tech tips using the frost king product. I also remember reading a post suggesting a product similar to dynamat, I believe called brown bread.
I can't find the brown bread post, but was hoping for some help chosing between the two options.
Considering cost, weight, and effectiveness what do you guys suggest.
How many of you have tried decreasing the noise in the cabin?
Dont know about the frost king stuff ( actually I do ) but to brown bread or dynomay your car...you are adding 100 pounds to the car and at a cost of 200 dollars... MY car has zero tire noise under 45 MPH even on a concrete roadway.. and I have reduced the tire noise by 50 % above 45... adding 15 pounds to the car and at a cost of 75 dollars... I have reduced the tunnel heat and cabin heat by 50 %... go to the top of the pagem click on tools, tech tips, c5, then llok for cabin heat and tire noise reduction.. both by me... look at the one with the pictures...Ive had 20 or 30 people do this with excellent results... mine has been done for three years now and there is no change in the results...
I just did the Frost King mod. Mike Mercury gets the credit. It works by bonding to the fiberglass pan and reduces amplitude resonance. The biggest offender is the rear trunk area (Coupe) and behind the seats. Be sure to wear gloves since the foil will cut your hands. You can order Frost King online at HomeDepot.com for $15 a roll.
In my car there was heavy padding on the tunnel sides (no room for additional material). I did apply additional Frost king on the top rear tunnel under the console. There was already a form pad in this area. I did not do the floor pan under the seats since they sit on a heavy balsa composite.
I also installed Solar Shield (like Reflectix but more flexible) with foil tape (Home Depot) in the rear wheel well areas. I folded the material into thick layers and taped fitted into to the inner fenders toward the door area. You need to allow an opening at the bottom for water drainage through the rocker panels (drains for trunk hatch). Dave Hill owes me a beer!
keep in mind that the Frost King (which is the exact same "entry-level" material sold under the name of Cascade) is the lightest weight offering of these type of dampening materials.
I'm cheap... and the FK was about half the price as the same product with Cascade's name on it.
If you want more dampening performance; you will have to spend more money and the weight will increase as density of product increases.
Your best bet is to determine your specific goal. If it's to quiet a loud aftermarket exhaust, or to stop rattles/buzzing from a high powered aftermarket stereo... then you might want to upgrade to more denser material sold by BrownBread, Cascade, and Dynomat.
I wish I could take "credit" for sound proofing the C5; but another forum member actually did the initial work, and shared the info for the rest of the forum to take and use for their specific applications.
Dont know about the frost king stuff ( actually I do ) but to brown bread or dynomay your car...you are adding 100 pounds to the car and at a cost of 200 dollars... MY car has zero tire noise under 45 MPH even on a concrete roadway.. and I have reduced the tire noise by 50 % above 45... adding 15 pounds to the car and at a cost of 75 dollars... I have reduced the tunnel heat and cabin heat by 50 %... go to the top of the pagem click on tools, tech tips, c5, then llok for cabin heat and tire noise reduction.. both by me... look at the one with the pictures...Ive had 20 or 30 people do this with excellent results... mine has been done for three years now and there is no change in the results...
[Modified by Evil-Twin, 10:09 PM 1/31/2004]
Thanks for the reply, I read the tech tip. Very helpful.
After doing the wheel wells and floor do you think there are any other areas which might improve over all result?
For both noise reduction and car audio performance would it be worth doing the frost king fix, and combine some brown bread in key areas?
The brown bead is selling on ebay for a $135 for 70 square feet. I'm not sure how much it would take, but a friend of mine is also looking to quite his F-body.
I did the Frost King thing. Seats out and all!! It was easy and the material is light. Cost was small. The results were super. The car is much quieter. I would do it again. :thumbs:
Ill do this project sooner or later, but right now its 20 degrees outside during the daytime and maybe 35 degrees inside the garage. I can use the extra heat the floor provides for now and Ill live with the tire/exhaust noise....
I have done the Frost King (as well as regular) sound insulation material Padding in the Trunk area and behind the seats. The "booming" sound from the rear hatch area is nearly non-existant. There is some tire noise, and in one respect a "humm" as a result of improper tire wear is now audible. I did not take out the seating area but may do so if and when I replace the shifter. I think I spent $70 for all the materials.
Also... From Home Depot I acquired a "Liquid Latex" Insulating foam. It comes in a can and has a nice durable tube to direct the spray. It's kinda like caulking, but it will expand to by a factor of about 50% as it cures. I was able to inject this under the trim panels in the overhead B-Pillar where my car (50,000 miles) was developing a squeak. After a Day, especially after driving the car in the sun the squeaks are nearly 100% gone. The nice thing is if you get any of the goop oozing out, it cleans up fairly easily with soap and water. I wouldn't recommend this for every panel (especially the dash) but in areas not covering a lot of sensitive elctronics it is definitely an option.
Also... From Home Depot I acquired a "Liquid Latex" Insulating foam. It comes in a can and has a nice durable tube to direct the spray. It's kinda like caulking, but it will expand to by a factor of about 50% as it cures.
hmmmm.... I'll have to take a look at that. It's just great seeing all these low-cost alternatives. :D
you might want to look into this site. I too am going to soundproof the trunk and seat area and I am going to go with this, and probably brown bread. http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html
The Biggest culprit for tire noise is the hollow channel between the outer quarter panel and the inner cabin frame.. see the picture in my tech tip... OH and BTW thanks Tim for posting this:
I wish I could take "credit" for sound proofing the C5; but another forum member actually did the initial work, and shared the info for the rest of the forum to take and use for their specific applications.
I put alum bubble in my Z06 & felt type material in my brothers cpe. The felt seemed to work the best. Got it from a auto interior supplier. Both were cheap. I used contact cement.
Don
you might want to look into this site. I too am going to soundproof the trunk and seat area and I am going to go with this, and probably brown bread. http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html
Whe you say "go with this, and probably the brown bread" are you saying you are going to use both brown bread and frost king?
I was goin to go with the L-comp and the brown bread. I was also probably only goin to do the trunk area. It should at a little more than 35lbs to the car. It sounds like a lot, but I don't drag race nor do I have any intention. So whats 35 lbs
The Biggest culprit for tire noise is the hollow channel between the outer quarter panel and the inner cabin frame.. see the picture in my tech tip... OH and BTW thanks Tim for posting this:
I wish I could take "credit" for sound proofing the C5; but another forum member actually did the initial work, and shared the info for the rest of the forum to take and use for their specific applications.
[Modified by Evil-Twin, 6:57 PM 2/1/2004]
My car does not have this tunnel as shown in your pictures. It looks like GM redesigned this area. My car has a stamped sheet metal panel welded to the frame. The only open area is in the foward rear quarter panel and the rocker area (composite panels). Same on both sides of car.
While changing the shifter I used the alum reflective stuff from Home depot as seen on a post here. I just did the console sides and behind the seats. Takes a little doing to get it down the sides of the console but with the help of a yard stick and patience it went. Watch out on the park brake side as there is a duct there and some other crap to work around. I also covered the entire top of the console from under the radio to the waterfall. We'll see how it works this summer. :flag