Ok, I hear of people drilling out the slave cylinder. Is it the line people drill or the fitting on the slave?

I also hear that Z06 slave units don't have this problem, is that true?

When GM just replaced my my master and slave on my 2000, they replaced it with part number 12562767 and 12564455. From another post it looks like 12562767 is the Z06 slave. Can someone confirm.

Lastly, is the bleeder on the slave cylinder? When I look at pictures in the shop manual and look at picture of a slave (GM calls it an actuator cylinder in the shop manual) in this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=642719

the picture looks the same. Is that where the bleeder is?

Lastly, is ther any trick to seperating the lines? I want to put some heat sheilding on the lines and I need to slip it over.

Thanks,

Donald

 

ttt

 

I just ordered some heat sheilding for the same purpose, but the type I ordered actually velcros together so you dont have to disconnect the line. I paid $29.99 and shipping was free. Go to www.eastwood.com and search for p/n 70328. If you want the type that slips over it's $14.99 (also smaller diameter 3/4 inch vs. 1 inch for velcro) p/n 70329. Both are 36 inches in length.

 

Drilling the slave won't buy you anything. There are three restrictions in the line. One is just inside the hard 90 degree bend where the hose connects to the slave housing. Knock out the roll-pin and you will see it in the end of the hose. Another is in the 90 degree bend of the hard line from the master to the quick disconnect and the last is halfway down that same hard line. All the Y-Body slaves have the restriction but you will want the latest Z06 slave as the slave design was updated in '01.

The F-Body's only have one restriction in the braided line from the master to the quick disconnect, no restriction in the slave. So your best bet is to get an F-Body braided line from the master to the quick disconnect, drill mod it out and replace the hard line that the vette has, then drill out the slave. Some have also talked about using a length of 4AN hose but you need to get the right connectors on both ends.

The whole drill mod thing is not needed unless you are going to be doing 5 grand clutch dumps on DR's. The restriction does not contribute to the 'pedal to floor' syndrome. It just slows down the hydraulic fluid flow so the clutch doesn't bang so hard.

I'm not able to see your pics for some reason but the bleeder is the ~3" length of hard line sticking out of the slave with the 10mm hex on the end. It is a real PITA to bleed while on the car.

Getting the quick disconnect to come apart is a real chore. I used small screwdrivers and worked at it for 30 minutes the first time and 15 minutes the second time. There are tools for fuel line and AC line dicsonnect fittings that supposedly work well but I will tell you that the plastic versions of these tools did not work for me at all.

HTH

 

That is GMs latest and greatest. It's what they used on my replacement and it is supposed to a big improvement. Take a look at www.gmpartsdirect.com at this part number for more information.