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I have a couple of questions for all of you that have tubbed your car. I am very seriously thinking about tubbing my car, but I would like to gather a little more info first :)
1) Did you use a vendors kit or did you use your existing panels to modify, move, and patch them?
2) What size wheels and offsets are you running?
3) Are you using and type of travel limiter and/or shock relocator?
I bought everything I needed from Lowes and only spent about $25.00, I have yet to do the wheel well liners but I'll worry about that when I'm closer to buying the 18 X 12 inch wheels :cheers:
I have a Lingenfelter kit. I like the kit because it comes with the wider fender liners. I'm running an 18X12 with 335's on the rear. There were some clearance issues at first with the control arm. It seems to work real well. I would have done it differently if you could purchase the wider fender wells seperatley.
3) Are you using and type of travel limiter and/or shock relocator?
Nope. I have Bilstien sports, and have had no problems. Only problem I have is the edges of the leaf springs rubbing the insides of the wheels, but that was solved by raising the rear back up some. I don't think shock relocaters would help this. But coil overs would. Gotta get some soon.
Kieth, I am interested in doing this mod as well. i do not plan on buying the kit. Let me know if you want to get together and do this to both cars at the same time. The only problem is I am in Florida until May. Kaley
I did my own tubbing. I posted a "How To" in the Tech Section if you wanted to see how I did mine. I'm running a 70mm offset, however the max offset you can go is 74mm.....without needing some type of shock mount relocation & shock travel limiter. There is one fourm member running a 78mm offset but he has issues with getting the rim on/off the car due to Rim/A-arm contact (which only occurs during full rear suspension droop).
On a side note I'm increasing my offset to 84mm once I get an alternative to the "LPE Shock Mount Relocation Bracket and Shock Travel Limiter" that I've been working on tested and verified. :D
Let me know if you want to get together and do this to both cars at the same time. The only problem is I am in Florida until May. Kaley
That sounds like a plan Kaley and May is the time frame I was thinking myself. Once you get back and are ready, let me know and we can work on the projects together :cheers:
Just finished locally.............
No kit, modified existing panels & fenderwells.
18x12 545 hres w/+74mm off set running 345/30/18 BFG DRs.
There is an area near the back mounting bolt for the plastic fender that juts out from the factory. I just shaped it with a box cutter & gave it a nice radius with the die grinder.
My rims just touch the A-arm bolted up w/o any limiters......I measured and found no need..........verified with the install!
looks like I have 3/4" before I hit the frame on the back of the tire.
Here is the links to my thread and my albumn with more pics http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=748497 http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...si=allthrottle
Do it.........you will not be sorry.
The car rides great with the 345s on it :thumbs:
Let me know if you want to get together and do this to both cars at the same time. The only problem is I am in Florida until May. Kaley
That sounds like a plan Kaley and May is the time frame I was thinking myself. Once you get back and are ready, let me know and we can work on the projects together :cheers:
Keith
Keith + Kaley - Make that 3 of us! I know exactly zero about fiberglassing and stuff, but I'm sure willing to learn.
One question that's worthwhile to throw in the mix: How substantially different is the job with coupes versus hardtops?
I have a Lingenfelter kit. I like the kit because it comes with the wider fender liners. I'm running an 18X12 with 335's on the rear. There were some clearance issues at first with the control arm. It seems to work real well. I would have done it differently if you could purchase the wider fender wells seperatley.
Matt
Matt, did you install the kit yourself? Big job, how long, etc??
Keith + Kaley - Make that 3 of us! I know exactly zero about fiberglassing and stuff, but I'm sure willing to learn.
Would the May time frame work with you also? Sounds like we have a nice weekend project starting here :)
One question that's worthwhile to throw in the mix: How substantially different is the job with coupes versus hardtops?
-Jake
After looking at the two howto docs that I know of, it looks like the only difference between a coupe and a hardtop is the coupe's roof holding brackets.
Would the May time frame work with you also? Sounds like we have a nice weekend project starting here :)
More than likely. I'll be at the Farmington ProSolo the first weekend of May, but I don't think I have any other plans beyond that. One thing I'm a bit curious about is the costs involved. LPE's Minitub kit is extremely expensive, but folks are saying they're doing it for just a few bucks in bondo and whatever.
Are there things they are not doing that the LPE kit provides? I won't be buying the larger wheels/tires for quite a while, but at least this way I'm prepared for when I need it.
After looking at the two howto docs that I know of, it looks like the only difference between a coupe and a hardtop is the coupe's roof holding brackets.
Good to know. I am hoping to be able to keep the ability to store my top, if at all possible. Do you have a coupe, vert, or FRC? I know Kaley has an FRC at this point.
Are there things they are not doing that the LPE kit provides?
The DIY versions/projects to not included a travel limiter and shock relocator. Becuase of this, it looks like the wheels will be limited to a +74mm offset. This offset will allow about 5/8" to 3/4" wider wheel without have the outer edge of the rim stick out any further than stock. From the pics I have seen, a 18"x12"wheel with a +74mm offset will have the outer edge of the wheel line up with the edge of the rear fender. If you want the outer edge of the rim to be inside the rear fender like a stock wheel, then a great offset would be needed along with the travel limiter and shock relocator.
I am hoping to be able to keep the ability to store my top, if at all possible.
If the factory panels/wells are cut correctly around the roof securing hardware, you should be able to still put your roof inside the car and secure it.