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Need help. My buddies and I are at a loss. What started out as a simple brake overhaul by removing and turning brake rotors and replacing brake pads has ended in a nightmare. I bought new brake pads from Advance Auto (ceramic pads) and had my rotors turned at another place. After reinstalling everything back on my Vette I took it for a test drive and discovered the problem. When the brake is applied I'm expierencing a pulsating almost wobbling feeling. First let me say that I didn't bleed the brakes after replacing the turned rotors and new pads because I didn't break the line. After I replaced everything I got in the car and pressed the brake pedal. It traveled to the floor and I had to pump it a few times before it returned to it's normal position. I took it for a test drive and that' s when I discovered the problem from hell. Long story short after talking with my buddies I, with the help of a buddy reinspected my work and tighted everything down and took the car for a second test drive. Again the same problem. I put the car back on the jack stands last night and replaced the turned rotors on the front with rotors from another Vette and still the same problem. I didn't swap out the rotors on the back wheels. I plan on doing that tonight but I'm skeptical about it working. This all started because I decided to paint my brake calipers. Is there anyone out there who is or has experienced this problem? Need help.
When you pull the front rotors, you should try cleaning the rust off the hub with a wire brush. Sometimes it can flake off and the rotor won't sit flat causing the pulsing. Make sure both the hub and the back of the rotor are nice and clean.
When you pull the front rotors, you should try cleaning the rust off the hub with a wire brush. Sometimes it can flake off and the rotor won't sit flat causing the pulsing. Make sure both the hub and the back of the rotor are nice and clean.
That would be the first place I would look. Rotors that aren't seated perfectly on the hub.
Also if you now have a firm brake you may have just been reseating the pads with the first couple of brake applications. Moving the caliper back far enough to get new pads in pushes a lot of fluid back into the master cylider resorvoir. Some of that fluid had to get back into the line.
as everyone else stated, clean the hubs and rotor mating surfaces,tourque the lug nuts to 100ft lbs with a tourque wrench. if nothing helps measure the lateral runout of all rotors,they may have been turned wrong and might need replacing.