When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently lowered my '98 (A4, F45 suspension, run flats) coupe 1 1/2" all around. It now does a PERFECT imitation of a dump truck. I would prefer to keep the run flats (Brand new) due to costs. In looking at the F45 suspension system I noticed what appear to be height sensors connected to each suspension arm and the body by a link. It would appear that the lowering of the body has caused the lever positioning to change substantially. Do you think that restoring the levers to their original positions via new or adjusted linkage might help restore/improve the ride quality. Any thoughts?
I also have the Magnetic ride control and I lowered my car 1" all around, what your saying sounds interesting and could be done but I don't think that will change the ride quality. The reason the ride is stiffer now is because you've unloaded the weight from the springs by lowereing the car so when you hit a bump the first thing that happens is the spring gets loaded up before the shock gets to absorb the impact.
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: No springs at all (BHP)
Your car has the FE1 springs which are weak. This limits the lowering point to 1" max.
I tend to agree... The FE1 springs are entirely too soft, especially once you lower the car. Try either raising the car a 1/2" back up or swapping to Z51/Z06 springs. :cheers:
Your car has the FE1 springs which are weak. This limits the lowering point to 1" max.
I tend to agree... The FE1 springs are entirely too soft, especially once you lower the car. Try either raising the car a 1/2" back up or swapping to Z51/Z06 springs. :cheers:
I have the same problem he's having. I have Z06 shocks and sways, but still on the base springs. If the car sits too low, it magnifies every little bump. It doesn't help that I'm still on the EMTs.
When I first got coilovers and lowered my car, I didn't have any shock travel and so I felt every single bump. It sucked. Make sure you give your shocks enough room to do their job...
When I first got coilovers and lowered my car, I didn't have any shock travel and so I felt every single bump. It sucked. Make sure you give your shocks enough room to do their job...
Will stiffer springs work better for a lowered car? Or will that make the ride harsher?
I am really curious as to the "function" of the (Quote) "ride height sensors", as the internal valving changes for the F45 ride control are handled by a separate circuit connected to the bottom of the shock. GM tech's, jump in please!
Could the shocks be hitting their internal bumpers? If so, is there a solution short of trashing the F45 suspension and replacing the shocks with shorter shocks.
Also, the comments about spring loading, compression, etc. wouldn't seem to apply since the methodolgy of lowering does not change actual spring loading (assuming all corners are lowered equally) but merely changes "body position" in relationship to the spring.
More viewpoints please!!!
Old Timer, you've answered your own question. The rubber bump stops for the C5 suspension is inside of the shocks so you can't see them. If they were external so you could see them, many C5 owners would realize they are lowering their cars right down against the rubber bumpers and eliminate any normal travel of the suspension parts, resulting in a harsh ride and greater danger of bending suspension parts or wheels.
Try what I did and mark (with a pencil) (don't jack the car up) the position of the shock cover on the body of the shock prior to lowering. Then unbolt one end of the shock and compress the shock to the rubber bumper and mark it again. The distance between the marks is how much shock travel you normally have. Reconnect the shock and lower away, you'll then be able to see how close you are to the bumpers where the car bottoms out.