Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
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From: Palm City Florida
Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems
OK, all my vacuum lines look intact.. I still have not looked at the 3 way check valve or canister.. I also want to make sure I am connected to the rear of the manifold..
Also, I can hear the A/C doors moving but they do not seem to moving completely..
I.e. If I put it on Floor only..and fan on high.. I can only feel it coming out to the floor a tiny bit... It sounds like the fan is always blowing harder than the air actually flowing...
Also, I can hear the A/C doors moving but they do not seem to moving completely..
I.e. If I put it on Floor only..and fan on high.. I can only feel it coming out to the floor a tiny bit... It sounds like the fan is always blowing harder than the air actually flowing...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7,981
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From: Piedmont, SC Currently Own: 99 Nassau blue FRC. Previously Owned: 84,95,98 Indy Pace,01 Z06
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (chuckster)
My little three way canister type valve was eaten slam up, due to a previous leak of battery acid.All is fine now!! :seeya
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 568
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (chuckster)
Hey Chuckster.. From what you are describing, it almost sounds like the line going to the rear of the intake manifold is either leaking or not properly seated.
What I like to do is when I have the intake off, cut the line and splice in a longer line so that a human can actually get their hand behind there and connect it properly.
Hope this helps and good luck!! BTW, when are we going to dyno that vert again!! You pulled some really NICE numbers last time!! :smash:
What I like to do is when I have the intake off, cut the line and splice in a longer line so that a human can actually get their hand behind there and connect it properly.
Hope this helps and good luck!! BTW, when are we going to dyno that vert again!! You pulled some really NICE numbers last time!! :smash:
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
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From: Palm City Florida
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (Brian@KelleyPerf)
Thanks Brian This is what I suspect also.. I had the LS6 Intake Manifold installed 2 years ago and I really think they did not connect it well.. I just wish I could fit my hand back there or see....
I hate to have to pull the whole manifold off..
I hate to have to pull the whole manifold off..
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 568
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (chuckster)
Forget getting your hand back there!! The intake is really not that hard to take off... i think its 8 8mm bolts and it just lifts up and forward.
i would suggest extending the A/C vacuum line so that it is easier to put on the back of the manifold and will give you some working room.
Good luck and if you need any help, let me know...
i would suggest extending the A/C vacuum line so that it is easier to put on the back of the manifold and will give you some working room.
Good luck and if you need any help, let me know...
Thanks Brian This is what I suspect also.. I had the LS6 Intake Manifold installed 2 years ago and I really think they did not connect it well.. I just wish I could fit my hand back there or see....
I hate to have to pull the whole manifold off..
I hate to have to pull the whole manifold off..
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
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From: Palm City Florida
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (Brian@KelleyPerf)
Ok, I will pull it...The car up on Jack Stands anyway...
1. Do I need to disconnect the entire fuel rail and line to do this? Or is there enough wiggle room?
2. Is using a torque wrench imperative when replacing the bolts on the intake?
3. Do you have the Torque pattern for the bolts?
I guess that is about it... :D
Brian did you ever put the Stock MAF ends back on and Dyno :p:
1. Do I need to disconnect the entire fuel rail and line to do this? Or is there enough wiggle room?
2. Is using a torque wrench imperative when replacing the bolts on the intake?
3. Do you have the Torque pattern for the bolts?
I guess that is about it... :D
Brian did you ever put the Stock MAF ends back on and Dyno :p:
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 568
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Re: Trying to determine if my A/C has Vacuum problems (chuckster)
Hello again... Go to Discount Auto parts and buy a fuel line disconnect fitting for GM. They stock them and they are pretty inexpensive. Use that tool to disconnect the stainless braided line going into the fuel rail. Once that is out of the way, remove the bolts and just pull up and at the same time pull forward and the intake will come off. You might have some problems with the rear bolts being that they are located under the cowling but you can get a n open end wrench in there and loosen them to the point where you can just pull them out enough so that the intake will move freely.
I am sure there is a torque spec but just use common sense here.. When you put the intake back, just tighten them in a few pases criss crossing them and tighten them down. I like to use aprox 8 ft lbs of torque which is not that much so be easy on those bolts. All they are doing is sealing the rubber intake gaskets to the intake on the heads.
Regarding the smaller MAF, unfortuantaely, I never got around to doing that but the car is putting down some decent numbers and drivability is excellent so I figure why fix something that aint broke!! :smash:
=:
I am sure there is a torque spec but just use common sense here.. When you put the intake back, just tighten them in a few pases criss crossing them and tighten them down. I like to use aprox 8 ft lbs of torque which is not that much so be easy on those bolts. All they are doing is sealing the rubber intake gaskets to the intake on the heads.
Regarding the smaller MAF, unfortuantaely, I never got around to doing that but the car is putting down some decent numbers and drivability is excellent so I figure why fix something that aint broke!! :smash:
Ok, I will pull it...The car up on Jack Stands anyway...
1. Do I need to disconnect the entire fuel rail and line to do this? Or is there enough wiggle room?
2. Is using a torque wrench imperative when replacing the bolts on the intake?
3. Do you have the Torque pattern for the bolts?
I guess that is about it... :D
Brian did you ever put the Stock MAF ends back on and Dyno :p:
1. Do I need to disconnect the entire fuel rail and line to do this? Or is there enough wiggle room?
2. Is using a torque wrench imperative when replacing the bolts on the intake?
3. Do you have the Torque pattern for the bolts?
I guess that is about it... :D
Brian did you ever put the Stock MAF ends back on and Dyno :p:
