When I replace my clutch with a RAM in the near future I'd like to cut and thread the actuator rod to make it adjustable. I've done this before with a turbo wastegate actuator rod and it worked well. Anyone know the diameter of the actuator rod so I can decide on a thread size?

 

TTT Please. :cheers:

 

I have done my own also:)

It is 1/4" 20 I believe........can't remember.

If you take out your master and cut off the existing rod end, you will see it is threaded underneath;) You have to cut off the current one though....do not cut it off at the end.

When you get the master off, you will see that the rod end is threaded on, and then crimped to hold it in place. You need to cut "up the length of the rod. Underneath you will see where the rod coming from the master will become exposed. It is threaded. You may actually nick the threads, but you can use a tap/die set to clean them up.

You can buy a heim joint (the way RAM does it) or if you want, you can go to any local hardware store and pick up a "turn buckle". It is what I use as I needed something the same day. The neat thing is that the turn buckle (commonly used on fences) is left threaded on one side (so it will not loosen when installed).

Let me know if you have any questions. I will help you as much as I can. If you want to use a heim joint it should be simple enough, but if you use a turnbuckle, you will need to make sure you get the one that is "hex stock" not shaped like a "oblong oval" that you can put your finger through the middle of. (It may seem confusing, but when you go to Home Depot, etc you will see what I am talking about;))

 

Thanks very much. I was planning on using a hex turnbuckle but I'm confused about the 'cut up the length of the rod'. Isn't it just whack the rod in half and thread both ends (one left handed)?

 

Well you want to get as much of the rod coming from the cylinder in to the turnbuckle.

If you whack it off then you run into the problem of possibly not being able to push the rod in. If you notice you need so much distance to be able to retract back into the cylinder (when pedal is depressed). So if you do cut it to short then you might not be able to depress the rod in enough.

Besides, when you take the cylinder out, you will notice the rod has 2 pieces. The one end with the eyebolt, that is crimped/threaded, onto the rod from the cylinder.

If you cut off just the piece that has the eyebolt then you can thread a turnbuckle directly onto the existing rod. Plus you will have enough rod inside the buckle, as not to bend it over!

That was the first problems I was having....bending the rod when shifting hard!

 

OK, I understand that there must be enough rod to depress into the master cylinder before the turnbuckle. Here's a pic of exactly what I was thinking of doing:


Here's a pic of the McLeod VS: the stock CMC. It looks like the McLeod is the same concept as the above pic:


I guess I wasn't planning on using a turn buckle with LH and RH threads as much as a long hex bolt, whacking a 1/4" or so out of the rod as far towards the eyelet as possible while still allowing plenty of rod on the eyelet side to thread into the hex nut. Thread the hex nut onto one side until the hex nut dead ends and thread the other side in with a lock nut like what is shown above. I am beginning to think we are talking about the same thing... :rolleyes: but I do see now from pic2 the two parts of the rod you mentioned. The crimp is way back close to the master right? So you cut this rod off lengthwise?

 

Yeah, either way would be fine. And I did mean lengthwise:)

Also the picture you have is not a McLeod. The McLeod master is a billet piece completely different then the one in the picture.

The one in the picture looks like an Fbody piece, but it still is not a McLeod. You should go to their website and look at their picture.

The one in your picture looks like a RAM.