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I did an agressive shift to 3rd and heard loud grinding. Now I hear what sounds like slipping splines, probably in front, at anything over quarter throttle. I just limped it to the house and have not had a chance to open anything up yet.
Is anyone aware of any 'common' failure point? It sounds like clutch plate to torque-tube shaft slippage, but I guess it could be torque tube to trans as well. The transmission 'feels' fine (smooth under motion and smooth gear changes).
Thanks in advance for any input.
(car is 435+ RWHP M6)
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Re: Driveline Broke - Need Input (C5 Tweaker)
I just did mine the front bushing was literally dust and fuzzy string. The bolts were the only thing grabbing it was hard to tell if it was the front or the back until it was apart. It had 60+ on it with some drag and mostly road racing. I put a new torque tube, You can only use an aluminum bushing on one end. What year car and miles? Tube was 1600 and the new ones are stronger than 99 MY. i did a clutch and slave while in there and the clutch was starting to burn and chip away.
I power shifted mine at the last track event in Nov then heard a clank when I went forward to reverse and knew it was bad. Then I decided I was in a hurry to get to a event and had the tube next day aired :eek: along with the LGM headers.
I just did mine the front bushing was literally dust and fuzzy string. The bolts were the only thing grabbing it was hard to tell if it was the front or the back until it was apart.
Hey John,
How difficult is it to replace the F&R bushings ? I have a harmonic vibration from 2700 - 3000 RPM, although no vib from 3k to 5500 or below 2700
The only thing I can think of are worn bushings. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
The issue is with a 2001 that already has the improved assembly. The car has 50k miles and sees severe duty daily with 435+ RWHP and 335s out back.
As the bushings are not available from GM, the shaft assembly with the bushings is $1100, or the whole torque tube for $1,900. I sent an email to Unidrive to probe for possible bushing sources.
I fear that if I replace one busing with aluminum, the other bushing may already be on its last leg. I may decide after inspection.
I found a junk yard torque tube for $450, but I am very skeptical that it would be perfectly strait from a totaled vehicle.
Good Luck with Uni-Drive, they were no help for me. Uni-Drive stated that the shaft is balanced as an assembly (which makes sense).
Before you buy any parts, inspect everything first….you many only need the drive shaft assembly, but if the shaft bearing spun in the torque tube then you will need a complete torque tube assembly.