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I just got my slave in and already removed the roll pin and drilled out the restriction in the hose where the hose inserts into the slave unit. I know when I do the clutch there is another restriction in the line that connects to the CMC about 1 inch down the hose from the CMC but I have heard rumor of another restriction inside the 90 degree turn of the slave hose. Is this true? If so it would seem impossible to get to!
That is the whole problem......:) (no pun intended)
Because our master cylinders are not like the F-body CMC we cannot drill the line where the restriction would be:( (on the other side of the 90 degree bend)
has anyone ever found out if the drill mod would definately fix a sticking pedal? I remember reading of someone doing this and it not curing the problem.
It really does not cure the problem. Apparently the problem lies in 3 things: Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, Pressure Plate........
I replaced my factory clutch with an aftermarket one and had no problems (keeping the same hydralics unmodified). I did have the sticking clutch pedal until then.
so its primarily the clutch itself then? Thats gonna suck. I was hoping to bleed the clutch and be ok. The car only has 22k miles on it. I dunno why mine would start happening right after the LT install :(
Dave
Not sure either. I do know that the line that runs to the slave is right next to the header. The heat may have something to do with it.
I would definitely try to bleed it first. ALot of people have had good luck with it. (although they do say it comes back:))
I had my clutch sticking issue from the factory with 12K miles. Also it is this the first time you have shifted the car hard? It may have always been there.
no its happened at the track when it was stock. But it only happened 1 out of 4 runs. Now it happens every time at the track on the 3 to 4 shift at the track even if i let it cool down. If I recall the clutch braided line isnt that close to the header. maybe ill get some type of wrap for the line and see what it does
That is the whole problem......:) (no pun intended)
Because our master cylinders are not like the F-body CMC we cannot drill the line where the restriction would be:( (on the other side of the 90 degree bend)
The 3rd restriction CAN be eliminated. I did a write-up on it a couple years ago: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=323904 At the 90 degree bend you simply drill through the outer casing on though down the restricted line, then JB weld a threaded cap onto the case to close it back up.
I am still running this same clutch mod setup; I have never had a sticking pedal since, nor has the cap leaked.
The 3rd restriction CAN be eliminated. I did a write-up on it a couple years ago: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=323904 At the 90 degree bend you simply drill through the outer casing on though down the restricted line, then JB weld a threaded cap onto the case to close it back up.
I am still running this same clutch mod setup; I have never had a sticking pedal since, nor has the cap leaked.
Robert
Thanks for that Robert! That 90 degree blockage is definitely easier to get to than the 90 degree bend in the slave's hose. So there is the slave's hose end and the CMC's hose end inside the far side of the 90 degree block but I'm a little confused about this other blockage halfway down the CMC hose that you get around by cutting it and rejoining it with flare unions. Where is there more info on this?
Thanks for that Robert! That 90 degree blockage is definitely easier to get to than the 90 degree bend in the slave's hose. So there is the slave's hose end and the CMC's hose end inside the far side of the 90 degree block but I'm a little confused about this other blockage halfway down the CMC hose that you get around by cutting it and rejoining it with flare unions. Where is there more info on this?
Thanks again!
At that factory crimp you speak of where the solid hyd line connects to the ss braided line right after the master cyl: what i did was cut about 1" down from the crimp connection on the solid line. then I drilled up the line through the crimp connection where the restriction is. I then reconnected the two solid lines together with swagelok 1/8" pipe connectors. Worked like a charm. If you like, I can send you these special connectors for a small price + shipping. Or, you can send me all of your clutch hydraulics and I will modify them for you....
PM'ed you RE: the parts. I'm curious if you note a definite difference with all the restrictions removed. Certainly the pedal does not stick anymore right? Does the clutch engage harder/quicker?
This is an interesting discussion. Dad's is a little to spongy for my taste. His has only stuck a couple of times. My main issue is the slow return. I'm used to clutches hitting hard and fast. No delay. If this mod fixes this, then awesome.
I went and got a mighty vac and bled the system. its a little better (im not sure i got all the air out)> it no longer will grind into 4th but sometimes it'll stick. One difference is before when the pedal went the to floor, no matter how hard i pressed it, the clutch was engaged. NOW, i have about 1" of travel and that inch will disengage the clutch..
Ok, here's a dumb question- why don't you just replace the whole line? It can't be that unique, can it?
you certainly could modify the entire line from the outlet of the master all the way down to the inlet of the slave. not a bad idea but then youd be removing that quick disconnect in the middle of the line that really aids in the R&R of the drivetrain.
Once i removed these 3 restrictions, I never had a failed peddle again. however, foot effort was increased. But since I have an adjustable master cyl I can tune the foot effort.
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Drill Mod Question (rwj383)
you certainly could modify the entire line from the outlet of the master all the way down to the inlet of the slave. not a bad idea but then youd be removing that quick disconnect in the middle of the line that really aids in the R&R of the drivetrain.
robert
Or you could add your own disconnect... :D
I just don't know if it's worth the effort to take the line out and hassle with drilling it in three spots... :confused:
I too am a little concerned about how intrusive the process is. With all the drilling, cutting and tapping there's a good chance to introduce lots of metal bits into the system but I absolutely cannot deal with the spongy pedal to the floor thing!
Robert, I can't see why removing the restrictions would increase pedal pressure or how adjusting the CMC would affect pedal pressure. :confused: