Thanks guys for all of the advice and support.

I got some new information today. First of all my transmission bit the dust due to inadequate fluid level as we all pretty much knew. Now for how it happened. BTW Bayouvette, my installer is quite respected in my area too.

A well respected transmission repair specialists in my area, who did the autopsy, told us that the procedures GM outlines for checking the transmission fluid level in our transmissions are inadequate and could result in underfilling the transmission.

He says that the procedure they outline will work most of the time, but there may be that one out of 25 or 30 cars where it does not adequately show transmission fluid level. Since this has happened to my car, I have spoken with one other person who just so happened to have their fluid level checked after a test drive where it was supposedly full, only to get back from the test drive and find out they are at least a quart low. He recommends that the car be put in Drive and the brake held and the car slowly brought to 1000 RPM for a few seconds, put in park, and then the transmission fluid level should be checked. Fluid should be added untill it runs out of the hole.

My transmission is being rebuilt and should be ready to go back into the car tomorrow.


[Modified by EB20003, 9:21 PM 5/24/2004]

 

Derek
Email me the details, I am sitting in hotel in Detroit on pins and needles for you. krl

 

Got the transmission back from the rebuild late yesterday afternoon and they got most of the reinstall done before they knocked off for the day.

The cradle is up. As far as the rest of the rear, only the half shafts, shocks, swaybar, balljoints, and calipers and emergency brake, have to be hooked back up. I should have it back this afternoon.

 

I can tell you that when I put my trans back in (converter, fluid, and filter change only), I first filled the pan with fluid (took 2.5 qts to get it pouring out of the fill hole). I started the car and shifted through the gears then began adding more fluid. The trans took an additional 3.75 qts to get it full. Just a little FYI.


[Modified by jamesge, 7:33 AM 5/26/2004]

 

I'm not so sure I "buy-into" that one... but if they're going to fix it for you; just agree with them and get your Vette back on the road.

:auto:

 

Well I have it back!!!!! :smash: :smash: :smash: :D :D :D :D :D


And it runs flawlessly. :smash:

All I can say is , "My gosh!!!!!" This is how the car was meant to run.

I'm not so sure I buy it either Mike. I'm thinking that they had to come up with something. And the "I followed procedure but still got a bad result" approach is one we all see from time to time.

But they did fix it. It shifts flawlessly, and the program from James seems to be working quite well aside from some slight pinging which I will have him address.

While it was down I had him put in a 170* thermostat I was saving to put in myself.

I am still putting the car through its paces and will post again later tonite if anyone is interested.

:D


[Modified by EB20003, 7:30 PM 5/26/2004]

 

Hot Damn :hurray:

how soon before you need
rear tires :lol:

 

DOC

I could not be happier for you and glad you are :) :yesnod: :cheers: all the way. Hope you enjoy and it is too bad you had to go through what you did but you sure taught us all a valuable lesson in low fluid and good to hear you are back in business and loving it!!!!

Kirby

 

From the looks of it, new tires are definitely going to come sooner rather than later :D

I never knew the car would run like this. This is truly the way America's Sports Car should run. This is how it should be set up. Truly amazing. The 3.42s over the 2.73s are like, well, night and day, like black and white, like oil and vinegar. What a monumental difference. My car with its 2.73s was no slouch, running a best of 13.14 in the quarter mile. But this........lets just say that the car runs strong. And there are many here running way stronger than this.

The disassembly is well, straightforward, because there are so many discussions about it here. The write ups by Mike Mercury and others, are very complete and having read their notes, when watching it done to my car, I knew every step, what it should look like and how it should be done. In short, even if you are not planning on doing it yourself, I highly recommend familiarizing yourself with the procedure.

And watch the mechanics do it if you can. This gives you an appreciation for why some choose hardened output shafts, what it means to break an output shaft. And then there are the half shafts, how they fit, and how and why a differential leak occurs. You also become more aware of how intricate and well designed the independant rear suspension in the car is. How everything comes together. A good team of 2-3 guys can do this procedure , swap out the TC and differential, in about 4 hrs or less. Thats counting everything. Adding the fluids, programming, everything.

The tricky parts seem to be getting the torque tube back in place and properly bolted, up making sure that the transmission is filled with fluid afterwards, programming, . Since the pan does not come off it would seem that adequately filling the torque converter is key.


Once its done, acceleration is the first thing you notice. Push you back into the seat acceleration. When you hit the gas pedal and hold it, the car shows no signs of letting up. None. I mean it is relentless. On the highway, with my 2.73s the transmission would drop back down into a lower gear, then take off. The 3.42s, depending on the speed, it doesn't bother to drop down, it just goes!!!

With the programming the shifts come quicker and firmer.

The torque converter, (Pro Torque PTC-11700C5LS 2400-2600 stall) feels near stock from a normal take off, requiring not much more throttle than the stock torque converter to get the car moving. No looseness to speak of at all.

This converter I believe has a 2.3 STR (I have seen this on the forum here but not at their site) and if you floor it from a dead stop it hits and it hits hard. From about a 40mph roll there is a noticable difference in the car's acceleration too, though this is not the best converter if you get into it from a roll.

The transmission cooler. Well, I had the tuner install a 170* thermostat while the car was down. I went back and forth during this ordeal about keeping the transmission cooler, top or bottom line, ad nauseum. To make a long story short, ....we kept the tranny cooler. I have run the car today and run it hard. Temps outside are around 72*. Transmission fluid temps are typically around 169*. I saw 179* after hitting triple digits (it comes up amazingly fast now) on a couple occasions. The tranny temps are running at about 12* lower than the coolant temps.


Oddly the cabin temps seem to be slightly higher. Maybe its just me. Especially inside the console and along the traction control button area. I have no idea why,???????? And I am watching the transmission temps like a hawk. But I am considering that high priced insulation blanket that West Coast Vettes sells which goes between the torque tube and the car.

For anyone on the fence, after one day, I can say that the members of this forum were hardly exaggerating when they recommended this combination. Some of the guys, especially the 3.15 guys, are going with 3.73s for even more performance and I can see why, as it is addictive.

Headers are next

Oh well, its 11:22PM.......time for another drive
:D :D




[Modified by EB20003, 12:27 AM 5/27/2004]

 

Read your post with interest and glad to hear you got your problems resolved. Sounds like you got some excellent results. :thumbs: I'm also getting ready to do a gear/TC upgrade from anemic 2:73s. I have a Yank SS3600 and 3:42s ready to go and will be seeing Mike Norris in the next couple of weeks for the install and some dyno tuning.

After reading your post I almost can't wait a couple of weeks to get this done.

 

Great Post ! Thank you for the write up. It seems lots of us A4 guys are moving up to a better gear T/C combo :cheers:

 

You are right, 3.73s are the perfect gear for the A4 car, But going from 2.73s to a 3.42 is also a very nice jump. I started at 3.15s so it was a nice jump to the 3.73s and PT2400.

:cheers:

Enjoy your new car!!

 

I've been following this thread quietly and am really glad that all is fixed now for my fellow Jersey vette guy :cheers: :cool:. The difference on how an A4 drives after a gear/TC upgrade is AMAZING. EB20003 describes it very well. I went from 3.15s to 3.73 and a Yank SS3600. For those on the fence about this mod, just do it. You will NOT be disappointed. It's the absolute best mod you can do for your A4. Do your research for the best gear/TC combo for your application and go for it.

 

Tenderfoot, as soon as $$ are available I will be doing the 3.73 & T/C along with catback & blackwing. I can't wait :smiliedrool: Thanks for your input !

 

EB20003
I have been following your post and thanks for all the follow up details. I will be doing the 3.42 gears--just not sure when. TC is anybodies call. There are just so many choices and opinions out there on what to use. Glad you got everything fixed and are happy with the set up. Have fun with your new setup as I know you will. :seeya