Hello,

I've had my 2002 Coupe MN6 since late 2001, and there's been a couple of instances where the car becomes very difficult to shift. Can anyone tell me if my car is behaving as expected? Should I take my car into the dealer for a checkup (which I hate to do, BTW)? Or, am I abusing my shifter?

Under normal driving conditions, this never happens to me. However, under fast, heavy shifting conditions, I find that I can barely get it out of gear.

For instance, last weekend I was running against a friend with an M3, mutliple times. Each time, I would shift pretty hard on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Note: I was not "powershifting", which I believe means that you keep the gas on while you shift. I was simply shifting "as fast as I could" by releasing the gas, pressing the clutch, and moving the stick shift as fast as possible. Perhaps too fast?

At the 1/4 mile point, I would either be in 3rd or 4th. However, when I would roll to 10-20 MPH, and push the clutch in, I would notice that it would not come out of gear very easily. A similar feeling as if the clutch were not in all the way.

The problem persisted, but I didn't think that it would get worse. Well, it did. After the 4th or 5th time, I could barely get the car out of gear. I had to arm wrestle the gear shift. I stopped running the car, and after about 30 minutes of cool down, followed by 15 minutes of driving thereafter, everything went back to normal.

So, my question is: Is this a synchro, clutch, heat, or just a shifting-technique issue?

Has anyone else experienced this? My guess is that it is heat-related. I remember when I took my car to Pahrump, I found that on the straight, I would shift hard, and then find that it would sometimes be hard to down-shift at the end of the straight. But, during the rest of the turns, it would be fine.

I would appreciate any comments or pointers.

Cheers,
-Alan

 

Sounds like you are having a version of the clutch on the floor syndrome. I have had a lot of this during track events. It can be caused by several problems. Clutch fluid overheated by the line too close to the headers, bad master or slave cylinder and/or a bad clutch. I have had all of these problems. I fixed the problem by replacing the master and slave cylinder and extensive bleeding using Motul 600 high temp brake fluid. Insullating the clutch (and brake) lines near the headers and I replaced the clutch with a single disk Excedy clutch.
Do not continue to force the shifter during this problem, especially during down shifts. The clutch is not properly disengaged even though the peddle is down. If you force the shifter under this condition you WILL TRASH YOUR SYNCRO'S. Get it fixed now...
Shirl
SDRE

 

I have this EXACT problem! Didn't used to be a huge deal prior to the nitrous. The clutch would get spongey during a WOT run but I never used to have to grab 4th. Since adding the 125 shot, I have to grab 4th and I cannot. It grinds because the clutch goes to the floor but does not disengage. Then, after the run, the pedal gets real hard to push in, just like you said. It goes away soon after if driven normally. Funny thing is if I leave the car sitting for a few days the pedal is REALLY easy to push in until I drive it 'enthusiastically', not even full bore 1/4 mile, just going through the gears it stiffens up almost immediately.

I'm glad to hear your symptoms because I never really thought this would be described as the 'pedal on floor' issue. Some have had the problem so bad that the pedal stays on the floor. I have never seen this. I have a RAM 402/910 as well as a new slave with the drill mod going in whenever I get around to it. Hopefully this will solve the issue. If not it is definitely the master but I am more apt to blame the pre-'00 slave.

 

If your peddle gets hard at higher RPM the problem IS THE CLUTCH. Get your new RAM clutch installed ASAP before you trash your syncro's like I did.
Shirl
SDRE

 

IConcur!!!

Same symptom on both my Z06s. I did clutch replacements quickly and avoided consequential tranny issues. Suggest you do the same.

Ranger


[Modified by Ranger, 10:12 AM 5/28/2004]

 

I have a similar problem but on my C4. I assume the same principles apply. I never really notice the pedal getting more or less difficult to press, but the shifter becomes difficult to move through the gears.

Then a new problem appeared just the other day. After a hard shift to third(6500rpm shifting fast but not power shifting) and then a WOT run till it was time to shift into 4th, the shifter would shift partially out of third but not into neutral or any other gear. It was still partially in the third position, third wasn't ingaged, and it wouldn't go back into third without matching rpms just like shifting without the clutch. After a couple minutes of cool down everything worked fine. I thought I must have bent something in the trans, but when it started working fine again I had no idea what the problem was.

What do you guys think this is? And what would help it?

Thanks,
Josh

 

When you say the clutch is the problem, what part specifically are you referring to? The pressure plate? Not that it matters as I'm replacing all the parts minus the master, just curious. Not planning on dragging again until I get my clutch installed and broken in.


[Modified by 5 Liter Eater, 12:39 PM 5/28/2004]

 

The pressure plate would be the prime suspect...
Shirl
SDRE

 

When Chevy warranties a clutch swap on a Z06 they replace everything, INCLUDING slave, master and Throw-out bearing.

The major cost is the labor and the big parts. Not worth the hassle of a second repair for the MC.

Just a thought

Ranger


[Modified by Ranger, 2:07 PM 5/28/2004]

 

I could see it being the PP. Would this "on car clutch pressure plate adjustment" procedure I found in my helms help? Not sure what the purpose of this procedure. I'm still going to replace everything. Just curious.

- Have an assistant press the clutch pedal until tension is released from the clutch pressure plate stepped adjusting ring, then continue to hold the pedal.
- Hold 2 screwdrivers or other suitable tools, and place them against 2 of the 3 stepped adjusting ring tension spring stops (1), just ahead of the adjusting ring tension springs.
- Using the screwdrivers, rotate the stepped adjusting ring counterclockwise (compressing the tension springs) until the adjusting ring steps are fully adjusted out, then continue to hold in position.
- Have your assistant release the clutch pedal.
- Release the adjusting ring tension spring stops.