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Replacing my front shocks and over torqued my bolts holding the upper a-arm to the body. I have to take the car and have it tapped. Am I safe driving the car easily with one bolt missing? It's the back bolt, not sure how much stress those bolts have on them.
F*CK! this sucks. Arghhh.. I hate working on cars. :mad :mad
You need an extractor of the proper size for the bolt you are removing and the correct drill bit for the extractor. ONLY get a QUALITY extractor, if you get a cheap one and it snaps off you will never be able to drill it out to try again.
One way to avoid this problem is to replace the bolts with studs. This works well on cars that have their alignment changed on a regular basis (street/track). Then all you have to worry about is getting a nut on/off the stud.
Bill
The 2003 upper A-arms torque to 48 ft-lbs. Just had to tap a cross thread. The left-left and right-right seems to be the toughest to properly align to tighten. I like the idea of studs vs bolts. Noticed that the threads are actually a threaded sleeve that should be replaceable.
Bill, Would you please describe the stud insertion proceedure? How do you properly tighten it in the threaded sleeve or do you remove the sleeve? Best,
Replacing my front shocks and over torqued my bolts holding the upper a-arm to the body. I have to take the car and have it tapped. Am I safe driving the car easily with one bolt missing? It's the back bolt, not sure how much stress those bolts have on them.
F*CK! this sucks. Arghhh.. I hate working on cars. :mad :mad
Sorry to hear about this broken bolt.. It happens.. you could try to extract it yourself, other wise I would have it towed to a shop and have them try to extract it.. Working on cars can be a pain in the butt I know because I do it every day.. Alot of people don't appreciate auto technicians because it's costs them money everytime they visit one.. working on it hands on you can see some of the problems we encounter and why we need to be compensated for such..